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chadg
Junior Member

46 Posts

Posted - 09/02/2008 :  11:04:24 AM  Show Profile  Click to see chadg's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
I'll second, third and fourth the FAN SWITCH idea! It would be pretty simple. It would be two units:

1) keypadlinc in 6 button config. Big buttons would be light on/off and the four smaller ones would be for fan control (off,low,med,high).

2) An inlinelinc like device (a bit different shape to fit in the housing of a fan) that would be paired with the keypadlinc and control the light and fan load separately.

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mnsandler
Junior Member

56 Posts

Posted - 09/04/2008 :  6:24:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Not sure if this was suggested, but i would like to see a fan switch like the Lightolier CCWHISPLC - a three speed switch specifically for fans.

Homeseer 2 User and Author of the Insteon PLM Plugin and Ademco Vista Alarm Plugin
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stusviews
Moderator

USA
10856 Posts

Posted - 09/04/2008 :  9:17:30 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mnsandler

Not sure if this was suggested, but i would like to see a fan switch like the Lightolier CCWHISPLC - a three speed switch specifically for fans.


I agree. I have several and they are really great w/fans, but I'd prefer all INSTEON devices.

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lola
Starting Member

2 Posts

Posted - 09/05/2008 :  10:38:22 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I am sorry if this is repeat. After about an hour of reading through this, I couldn't take it anymore. My request is for a LampLinc with real user functionality. I have looked and looked and my idea is that you use a screw in type attachment that is Insteon compatible. It will have an extension that your bulb could them be screwed directly into the attachment. On this device have a button or toggle that would allow for local control. It could then be linked or programmed remotely to suit any lighting scenes, etc. So, the manual lamp turn knob would always be in the on position and controlled via the insteon device with local control.
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dem5867
Starting Member

8 Posts

Posted - 09/06/2008 :  07:07:31 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hoe about writing a plugin for homeserr that works and has linc managerment....
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GraysonPeddie
Senior Member

USA
317 Posts

Posted - 09/06/2008 :  4:22:44 PM  Show Profile  Click to see GraysonPeddie's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
I want a LampLinc with an outlet on top, where I can plug in the light that will go between the cabinet door and the sink! :)

It's great if I can't hardwire my own SwitchLinc.

Or, at least just have light on top of a LampLinc that is fully dimmable.

Using Vista Business for webserver until I get WS08 Web Edition.
Proud-owner of PLM!

I'm a computer programmer (Visual Studio 2005 with C#/ASP.net/SQL Server 2005 Express).

Edited by - GraysonPeddie on 09/06/2008 4:30:52 PM
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LeeG
Advanced Member

USA
2222 Posts

Posted - 09/06/2008 :  9:00:56 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
To get the LampLinc outlet on top, flip the receptacle such that the ground pin is up. Not sure if there is some code involved but the electrician that did my house did some receptacles with the ground pin down and some with the ground pin up.

Lee G
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digger
Advanced Member

USA
1508 Posts

Posted - 09/07/2008 :  05:44:42 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by LeeG

To get the LampLinc outlet on top, flip the receptacle such that the ground pin is up. Not sure if there is some code involved but the electrician that did my house did some receptacles with the ground pin down and some with the ground pin up.



Metal coverplate requires the ground pin up. Plastic can be either way technically.

Grayson is a renter and is probably not allowed to make cahnges like that.
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tyler electric
Junior Member

USA
49 Posts

Posted - 09/07/2008 :  07:14:30 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Digger,

Can you site your source for this info?

"Metal coverplate requires the ground pin up."
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stusviews
Moderator

USA
10856 Posts

Posted - 09/07/2008 :  2:35:26 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by GraysonPeddie

I want a LampLinc with an outlet on top, where I can plug in the light that will go between the cabinet door and the sink! :)

It's great if I can't hardwire my own SwitchLinc.

Or, at least just have light on top of a LampLinc that is fully dimmable.


As a renter, in most cases you should have no difficulty replacing hard wired devices as long as you return everything to its original specs. Try this http://www.smarthome.com/2241w.html

Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today?
MathLandia High school mathematics fun and learning.
Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything.
Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver.
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digger
Advanced Member

USA
1508 Posts

Posted - 09/07/2008 :  3:22:19 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by tyler electric

Hi Digger,

Can you site your source for this info?

"Metal coverplate requires the ground pin up."



The NEC or NYC electrical code. If a metal coverplate was to fall across the blades of a device that was plugged into an outlet it would create a shock hazard. If you mount the ground pin up the coverplate would contact the ground pin first and if it does hit the hot it would be a dead short to ground and trip the branch circuit breaker. I do not remember the exact paragraph and I dont have a copy of the NEC at home.

Since you are a lic electrician I am sure you can find it in the code. If not ask you local code inspector.

Edited by - digger on 09/07/2008 3:24:23 PM
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stusviews
Moderator

USA
10856 Posts

Posted - 09/07/2008 :  4:17:28 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by digger

quote:
Originally posted by tyler electric

Hi Digger,

Can you site your source for this info?

"Metal coverplate requires the ground pin up."



The NEC or NYC electrical code. If a metal coverplate was to fall across the blades of a device that was plugged into an outlet it would create a shock hazard. If you mount the ground pin up the coverplate would contact the ground pin first and if it does hit the hot it would be a dead short to ground and trip the branch circuit breaker. I do not remember the exact paragraph and I dont have a copy of the NEC at home.

Since you are a lic electrician I am sure you can find it in the code. If not ask you local code inspector.


According to the NEC 406.4 (A) ...receptacle face shall project a minimum of 044 mm (0.015 in.) from the metal faceplate.
406.4(D) and 406.5(A) Metal faceplates shall be of ferrous metal not less than 0.76 mm (0.300 in.) in thickness...
and (B) Metal faceplates shall be grounded.

There is no regulation about whether the ground pin is at the top or bottom. And in some locations the receptacle is horizontal or in the floor.

BTW, I was a journeyman electrician in NYC (Local 3, IBEW).

Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today?
MathLandia High school mathematics fun and learning.
Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything.
Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver.
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digger
Advanced Member

USA
1508 Posts

Posted - 09/07/2008 :  4:47:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

quote:
Originally posted by digger

quote:
Originally posted by tyler electric

Hi Digger,

Can you site your source for this info?

"Metal coverplate requires the ground pin up."



The NEC or NYC electrical code. If a metal coverplate was to fall across the blades of a device that was plugged into an outlet it would create a shock hazard. If you mount the ground pin up the coverplate would contact the ground pin first and if it does hit the hot it would be a dead short to ground and trip the branch circuit breaker. I do not remember the exact paragraph and I dont have a copy of the NEC at home.

Since you are a lic electrician I am sure you can find it in the code. If not ask you local code inspector.


According to the NEC 406.4 (A) ...receptacle face shall project a minimum of 044 mm (0.015 in.) from the metal faceplate.
406.4(D) and 406.5(A) Metal faceplates shall be of ferrous metal not less than 0.76 mm (0.300 in.) in thickness...
and (B) Metal faceplates shall be grounded.

There is no regulation about whether the ground pin is at the top or bottom. And in some locations the receptacle is horizontal or in the floor.

BTW, I was a journeyman electrician in NYC (Local 3, IBEW).




Its funny since UL makes us put that warning in our products stating the NEC. I think it is in the code somewhere as they quoted it to us. I will have to go through my email archives at work to find it from UL.
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tyler electric
Junior Member

USA
49 Posts

Posted - 09/07/2008 :  5:19:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Digger,

Yes I am a licensed electrician...actually a licensed master electrician and a licensed unlimited electrical contractor with over 25 years of experience. That said, I do not know the NEC front to back. I do see posters sometimes stating for fact things that I have never heard of before such as metal cover requiring the ground to be up. The reality is there have been proposals in each of the last 4 or 5 code cycles to require that the ground be up, but they have all been rejected. As Stu said, nothing in the NEC specifies the orientation of the ground terminal on a receptacle. If you are interested in reading more on this subject check out: http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=63148&highlight=ground
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digger
Advanced Member

USA
1508 Posts

Posted - 09/07/2008 :  5:50:23 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by tyler electric

Hi Digger,

Yes I am a licensed electrician...actually a licensed master electrician and a licensed unlimited electrical contractor with over 25 years of experience. That said, I do not know the NEC front to back. I do see posters sometimes stating for fact things that I have never heard of before such as metal cover requiring the ground to be up. The reality is there have been proposals in each of the last 4 or 5 code cycles to require that the ground be up, but they have all been rejected. As Stu said, nothing in the NEC specifies the orientation of the ground terminal on a receptacle. If you are interested in reading more on this subject check out: http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=63148&highlight=ground




I will have to look through my emails at work tomorrow if I have time. UL gave us a really hard time about a year ago about proper instructions on metal coverplates with some of our products. We had to revise some documents that were around for a decade and nobody complained about. They did quote the NEC and the whole thing started from a complaint in NYC.

A real life situation was stated in the forum you noted. An alarm transformer has a center mounting screw in the USA (not permitted in Canada). If you remove the center screw to uninstall the transformer the plate can possibly drop and hit the live blade of the transformer as you unplug it. That would create a live ungrounded plate that is exposed to the person removing the transformer.
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dem5867
Starting Member

8 Posts

Posted - 09/08/2008 :  06:44:15 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
A PLM or PLC plugin for Homeseer that works and don't need a $300 isy...
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digger
Advanced Member

USA
1508 Posts

Posted - 09/08/2008 :  3:18:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by dem5867

A PLM or PLC plugin for Homeseer that works and don't need a $300 isy...



Some people say you can get a refurb ISY for $99 but last I checked they only had the ones starting at $199. Still hurts but just not as much.

UPB and Zwave seems to work with Homeseer. ISY and Powerhome seem to work with Insteon.
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GraysonPeddie
Senior Member

USA
317 Posts

Posted - 09/08/2008 :  4:22:42 PM  Show Profile  Click to see GraysonPeddie's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

quote:
Originally posted by GraysonPeddie

I want a LampLinc with an outlet on top, where I can plug in the light that will go between the cabinet door and the sink! :)

It's great if I can't hardwire my own SwitchLinc.

Or, at least just have light on top of a LampLinc that is fully dimmable.


As a renter, in most cases you should have no difficulty replacing hard wired devices as long as you return everything to its original specs. Try this http://www.smarthome.com/2241w.html

Okay, thanks, but that outlet is not the one I need. I can take out the walk switch for the light and put in SwitchLincs, if it's not a problem (only if I turn off the electricity before I put in a SwitchLinc).

Using Vista Business for webserver until I get WS08 Web Edition.
Proud-owner of PLM!

I'm a computer programmer (Visual Studio 2005 with C#/ASP.net/SQL Server 2005 Express).
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hotwire
Starting Member

USA
1 Posts

Posted - 09/24/2008 :  10:07:54 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'd like an Insteon equivalent of one of these.
http://www.smarthome.com/4080XT/X10-Motion-Detector-Floodlight/p.aspx

It would have to use a relay to switch on the lamps, just as the original does, so that it can be used with flourescent lamps.
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Illusion
Junior Member

USA
54 Posts

Posted - 09/27/2008 :  1:42:26 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by hotwire

I'd like an Insteon equivalent of one of these.
http://www.smarthome.com/4080XT/X10-Motion-Detector-Floodlight/p.aspx

It would have to use a relay to switch on the lamps, just as the original does, so that it can be used with flourescent lamps.



I would buy 9 of these right now!!!!! Exactly as described!!!!
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stusviews
Moderator

USA
10856 Posts

Posted - 09/27/2008 :  5:49:01 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by hotwire

I'd like an Insteon equivalent of one of these.
http://www.smarthome.com/4080XT/X10-Motion-Detector-Floodlight/p.aspx

It would have to use a relay to switch on the lamps, just as the original does, so that it can be used with flourescent lamps.


Half a dozen needed here!

Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today?
MathLandia High school mathematics fun and learning.
Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything.
Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver.
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GraysonPeddie
Senior Member

USA
317 Posts

Posted - 10/02/2008 :  04:06:27 AM  Show Profile  Click to see GraysonPeddie's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
Wow! Looks like after 30 pages of thread, this the height of the thread's row in the forum will be higher with page starting 31. I think it'll be better just to show something like:

1 2 3 4 5 ... 26 27 28 29 30

Not to get the thread off-track, though. 8 more posts left until page 31.

Anyway, I'd take those floodlights as a low priority. Someone, other than SmartLabs, could make something like this... Even fan controllers. But I'd like to see some more wireless products, especially remotes, since the RemoteLinc is a bit too big for my taste. All on/all off/bright/dim is not necessary for me. I'd rather see three on/off buttons (can act as bright/dim) and 6 trigger/toggle buttons.

Using Vista Business for webserver until I get WS08 Web Edition.
Proud-owner of PLM!

I'm a computer programmer (Visual Studio 2005 with C#/ASP.net/SQL Server 2005 Express).

Edited by - GraysonPeddie on 10/02/2008 04:14:35 AM
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tyler electric
Junior Member

USA
49 Posts

Posted - 10/13/2008 :  8:55:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'd love to see an accessory dimmer and accessory relay for use in multi location switching. Only one device needs to carry the load. Currently you need to use a full on dimmer or relay for all locations. It seems like creating a dimmer/relay that does nothing more than communicate with other devices could be had for less than the cost of full on dimmer. Also would like to see a dimmer that can handle a bit more than 1000 watts.

Edited by - tyler electric on 10/14/2008 05:43:23 AM
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garyfunk
Average Member

USA
138 Posts

Posted - 10/14/2008 :  06:07:23 AM  Show Profile  Visit garyfunk's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I love to have some 'no-load' devices. I have several 3-way and 4-way switches in my house. Why waste a SwitchLinc Dimmer or a PadLinc Dimmer when the dimmer will NEVER be connect to a load? I will guess that about 25% of the devices I install will never handle a load.

I'm Gary Funk and I approved this message.
Senior Application Developer
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stusviews
Moderator

USA
10856 Posts

Posted - 10/14/2008 :  4:03:34 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I, too, have a lot of no-load locations. I also use some In-line devices. So, for $60, I got the 2-wire kit.

However, neither HouseLinc 1 not the new HL 2 recognize the switch. Manually linking, setting ramp rate, and brightness levels all work. And the InLine device is seen by the software. Fits my need.

Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today?
MathLandia High school mathematics fun and learning.
Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything.
Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver.
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upstatemike
Average Member

188 Posts

Posted - 11/04/2008 :  6:57:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by tyler electric

I'd love to see an accessory dimmer and accessory relay for use in multi location switching. Only one device needs to carry the load. Currently you need to use a full on dimmer or relay for all locations. It seems like creating a dimmer/relay that does nothing more than communicate with other devices could be had for less than the cost of full on dimmer.


I do not think this is accurate. A no load transmitter switch would only cost slightly less to manufacture and much of that savings would be offset by the extra cost of managing additional products in the line plus loss of sales, and therefore a reduction in economies of scale, in the standard load bearing switch products.

Because the manufacturing cost of a no-load device would not be low enough to allow for the kind of retail price differential that would satisfy the expectations of consumers, I beleive that Smarthome would actually have to raise the price of the existing switch line if no-load versions were introduced.

By leveraging existing products in both load and no-load applications, Smarthome is already leveraging economies of scale efficiencies to provide the best bang for the buck to end users. It may seem like using a regular switch in a no-load application is wasteful but it really is the most cost effective solution for a product of this kind.
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broered
Starting Member

USA
5 Posts

Posted - 11/07/2008 :  5:38:23 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
the key to extending INSTEON home automation is a universal device that can provide and sense contact closures.
Simplehomenet has such devices but HouseLinc doesn't provide support for them. What good is having a device without support of home automation software?
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bcmayes
Average Member

100 Posts

Posted - 11/08/2008 :  09:07:53 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'd like to see a 2-wire "companion" switch sold on its own. It should also be designed like the SwitchLincs with the row of eight white lights instead of the ICON-esque single, unchangeable amber light.
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ldreher
Starting Member

USA
13 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2008 :  1:30:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
I'd like to see a 2-wire "companion" switch sold on its own. It should also be designed like the SwitchLincs with the row of eight white lights instead of the ICON-esque single, unchangeable amber light.


I second this. I was actually just on the web site ready to buy one and I declined because of the icon look.
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Sub-Routine
Advanced Member

USA
1202 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2008 :  2:04:07 PM  Show Profile  Visit Sub-Routine's Homepage  Reply with Quote
When you use a switch as a scene controller it doesn't make sense (to me) to have a level indicator.

I have one no-load switch that controls five lights with individual levels.

Rand
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