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Solution of the Week
Installing In-Wall Speakers
Any audiophile can tell you that your speaker quality is as important as your stereo when it comes to audio sound. From massive towers to tiny cubes, speakers come in a wide variety of shapes and styles. But many believe that even today's smallest, highest-quality speakers can appear intrusive in the d�cor of some rooms. Luckily, installing in-wall speakers can be a simple solution to this problem, and since speakers' grilles can be painted to match your room, they'll barely stand out. Don't consider yourself to be a do-it-yourselfer? This step-by-step guide will walk you through the process.
Please be advised that although the steps described are typical of most in-wall speakers available from Smarthome, there may be some slight differences depending on the brand or model. Before beginning any project, please consult the instruction manual included with each speaker. If you haven't yet purchased your speakers, Smarthome has a variety of In-Wall Speakers in an assortment of sizes and brands.
| | | Running Cable to the Speaker Location | |
The first step is getting speaker cable to the planned speaker location. Be sure to use speaker cable that's rated Class 2 or higher, like Monster Standard™ 16-gauge In-Wall Speaker Cable or Monster Standard™ 14-gauge In-Wall Speaker Cable, both of which are rated UL Class 3. In new construction, before the walls go up, the electrical inspector will check all your wiring, including low-voltage lines like speaker cable. These cables have the UL Class number clearly imprinted on the sheath of the cable to make it evident. Smarthome as a variety of speaker cable to select from.
 In many cases, it will be necessary to drill into framing to run the cables. Drill holes directly in the center of these pieces using the Stud-Pro Drill Jig, which ensures accurate positioning.
When running speaker cables or any low-voltage cable, be sure to avoid running the cables near electrical wiring. Cables should be at least 16 inches from parallel runs of electrical wires. For the places where the cable must cross electrical wires, be sure to do so at 90-degree angles. Do not use the same holes drilled in the framing for the electrical wires. For wall speaker installations, use a wall cavity (the area between the studs) that does not have an electrical outlet.
 In a home with finished walls, using a Fish Tape or a Cable Fish Rod can aid in running wires inside a wall. You can run the wire before or after cutting the drywall hole in the wall, which is outlined below. It is not advisable to run wires in exterior walls, due to the insulation and fire stops.
Another wiring option is to use Tape Wire. This wire can be run along floors and walls between the amplifier and the speaker. Once installed, cover the Tape Wire with a thin coat of dry-wall compound, spackle, or plaster. Once textured and painted, it won't be noticeable.
 In new construction, run the cable to the proposed location of speaker and coil up five to six additional feet of cable. It's easy to cut off the extra cable, but if you run short, you'll quickly discover that cable does not stretch. After the drywall is installed and painted, you can go back and finish the installation. Another alternative available on some speakers is to use a Rough-in Bracket. It will be nailed to the wall studs. Later, the drywall installers will cut an opening in the wallboard for the bracket. After the painters finish, it's just a matter of attaching the speaker wires and screwing in the speaker.
| | | The Speaker Cut-Out | |
In this step, you will lay out the holes that must be cut into the drywall to accommodate the speakers. Careful planning is required, or you could end up with an unattractive hole on the wall. Use a stud finder to locate the framing around the speaker, and check the speaker's instruction manual for the minimum clearance needed to install the speaker. Most speakers need at least 1 or 2 inches of free space around the opening for mounting. Ideally, placing the speaker in the direct center between the studs is the best course of action.
 One element included with virtually all speaker kits is a cut-out template. Sometimes, the template will be part of the box or packing material. In the photo, the cardboard template was part of the material that separated the speakers in the box. Sometimes the manufacturer will include a generic template for all its speakers, with multiple perforations for the different sizes that the company makes. Be sure to triple-check the cut-out size before you begin cutting.
 Place the template on the wall and use masking tape to secure it temporarily. Use a carpenter's level to make sure the top is level or the sides are plumb. Use a pencil to outline the area to be cut. Once again, it won't hurt to verify one last time that the cut-out matches the speaker's opening.
 Once the outline is marked on the wall, begin cutting out the wall material with a drywall saw or keyhole saw. Take your time. Wallboard is pretty easy to cut, and if the opening is a little on the big side, the speaker's outer frame will probably cover any minor over-cuts.
 Next, remove the center section you just cut out and keep it in a safe location, just in case you exposed a water pipe or heating duct and have to patch the wall later. It's not likely to happen, but it's better to play it safe and save the cutout until the project is completed.
 Reach inside the wall cavity and find the speaker cable you previously installed. If you did not pre-wire prior to this step, now's the time to run the wires. If you have fiberglass insulation in your walls, be sure to wear protective gloves, as fragments of the fiberglass can get under your skin.
| | | Installing the Speaker into the Wall | |
  Install the bracket for the speaker if one is included. With some in-wall speakers, there is a plastic bracket that is installed inside the wall. Other speakers use a metal bracket. Some don't use a bracket at all. All of these units have clamps that hold the speaker to the wall from the inside.
 Any connected amplifier should be powered down while installing speakers, as your speaker and/or amplifier could be damaged during installation if power is running through the cables. Strip the insulation for the speaker cable and attach to the input jacks on the speaker, attaching the negative wire to the black terminal and the positive wire to the red terminal. If the wires are connected to an audio source, test your speaker now. It's easier to fix a glitch before the speaker has been installed and painted. There will be space behind the speaker in the wall cavity, and this extra space can actually affect the speaker's sound. If it's not already there, you can stuff a little fiberglass insulation into this area to diminish this negative impact. Be sure to wear protective gloves when doing so.
 Slide the speaker into the opening. Center the speaker in the cut-out and tighten the screws evenly. In the photo, you'll see we used an electric screwdriver to drive the screw most of the way. For final tightening, use a manual screwdriver. The speaker's plastic case may crack or be distorted if over-tightened by an electric screwdriver. If your speaker has a pivoting tweeter or baffle, be sure to aim the sound to your desired listening area prior to installing the grille.
| | | Finishing Touches | |
 Press the grille onto the speaker and perform a final test. If you want to paint the grilles to match the walls, be sure to use a well-thinned paint, and try not to block the grille's holes, as this will diminish the sound quality. High-quality spray paint produces the best results. Use the cut-out template to cover the speaker elements during painting.
That's it! With your new speakers installed, you can enjoy high-quality sound from recessed speakers, which won't intrude on your d�cor.
If you don't feel you have the skill set to install in-wall speakers, there are professionals who can help. For a few names of professionals in your area who can help, please consult the Smarthome Installer Referral Program.
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