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BUILD A HARDWIRED IR DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM
Have you ever asked yourself, What parts do I need to purchase for IR signal distribution? I want to put an IR sensor in my dining room connected to an emitter in my family room to control my stereo. What goes between the emitter and sensor? Where do the emitter and sensor get their power?
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While hooking a stereo, satellite dish receiver, or anything controlled by a remote control to a second location in the home is easy, controlling it is more difficult. But getting the remote control signals back to the source unit can be easily accomplished.
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This project involves installing a hardwired IR system where there is a cable between the remote room and the source equipment. This is the most reliable way of sending IR signals between rooms.
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| | | Wireless IR System | |
 We have systems that will send the signals over radio frequencies, such as the Powermid Set. This kit along with the Infrared Remote Extender catches the signals from your remote controls, converts, and sends that information over a radio frequency to a companion receiver unit. The receiver then changes the radio signals back into infrared light and directs it towards the equipment. Click on the picture on the right to learn more.
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 We also have some remote controls that have radio transmitters built into them. These units will directly send IR light out the front of the unit, plus send a radio signal to a receiver. Like the Powermid system, the receiver pulls down the radio signals and creates IR light for the equipment. If you already have a cool remote, you can easily make that remote RF-based. Our Infrared Remote Extender has a small transmitter that attaches to the front of your existing remote control. A receiver-base station will then relay and convert the radio signals to control a receiver, DVD, or whatever you have.
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| | | Hardwired IR System | |
These systems work like the wireless ones above, but have fewer distance limitations. They work with your existing remote controls and consist of five major parts:
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 | Sensors - Catches the IR light and converts it to an electrical signal. |
 | Cable - Two conductor plus shield to carry the electrical signals from the sensor to a connecting block. |
 | Connecting Block - The heart of the system where all the wires and cables attach. |
 | Emitters - Plugs into the connecting block and receives electrical signals and turns them into IR light.
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 | Power Supply - Plugs into the connecting block and provides 12 volts DC to run the system.
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Putting it all together: components of a hardwired IR system
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| | | | Sensors | |
Sensors are installed in the rooms from where the system needs to be controlled. We have many sensors to choose from depending on how it's installed:
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| | | Cable | |
 | All of the sensors above need the same type of cabling to carry the signal over to the connecting block. We recommend using Two Conductor-Shielded Cable. Each sensor has three connections on them: +12 volts DC, signal output, and ground or the negative connection of the DC. Although the cable does not have to be shielded, it helps to improve reliability. All the cables offered at Smarthome are UL Class 2 or higher and are approved for in-wall use. |
Distance
Limitations | | Gauge | Length | | 22 | 600 ft. | | 20 | 2000 ft. | | 18 | 5000 ft. |
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| | | Connecting Blocks | |
 The Connecting Block is the heart of the hardwired Ir system. A 12-Volt DC Power Adapter powers the block. It takes that power and supplies it to the Ir sensors by way of the three-conductor cable. All the Ir sensors are connected to the input jack on the block. The output jacks on the block are connected to emitters. Depending on your needs, we have connecting blocks with four to 18 Emitter Outputs. The block should be located near the equipment being controlled and in an area accessible for maintenance. Most commonly, it is located in the rack next to the equipment it's controlling.
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| | | Emitters | |
 These devices take the electrical signals from the connecting block and produce Ir light for the audio and video devices. Essentially, they are re-producing the Ir light that originally came from the originating remote control. All the emitters for our connecting blocks are engineered to be directly attached to the sensor window on the equipment. That is, they only produce enough light to travel a few inches so placement is very important. When folks call about a non-functional Ir system, it's usually because they have just set the Ir emitter on a table many feet from the devices they are trying to control. See the graphic to see an emitter properly attached to a VCR.
Emitters are available in single and double-headed models and have six to nine feet of cable. A double-headed model, like # 8171 and 8171S has two stick-on emitters connected to a single cable that plugs into the connecting block. Emitters are also transparent to Ir signals so you can continue to use a remote control pointed directly at a piece of equipment with a emitter over it's sensor window.
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Once everything is connected, plug in the AC to DC adapter and test the system. The response time between pressing a button on the remote control and the device's reaction is instantaneous. Ir sensors can be 'fooled' into transmitting random signals (most of which won't effect the equipment) by Ir light coming from fluorescent lamps, sunlight, and most recently, plasma-screen monitors. With some experimentation on the placement of the sensors, the problem can be avoided.
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Now you can enjoy your new Ir distribution system without the side effect of running between rooms to control your audio and video equipment. This project is what home automation is all about.
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