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THE MOST COMMON ISSUES WITH X10







In this FAQ, I wanted to spend some time discussing three of the most common questions we receive about X10 products. The issues are not complex to understand or solve. The questions below come from actual emails and calls we typically tackle at least once a day in our Technical Support Department.

Question #1 










I just installed my first few modules and love them. But for some reason, one of my lights keeps coming on at the same time every day. What should I do?

This is my favorite question. The Tech Support guys will often close their eyes and recite a well-rehearsed speech to the caller. Sometimes, if the caller and tech support rep have built a good relationship during the call, he will sometimes, in a joking manner, mention that the house is haunted or that a firebomb may be necessary to fix the problem.

A module that comes on the same time each day is a sign that a real X10 signal is being sent from somewhere to trigger the light. When the lights come on randomly, it may be due to other factors like electrical noise on the line or changes in the line voltage from the utility company, more on that later.

The first step should be to change the Housecode on the controller and all of the modules. It is possible that one of your neighbors has an X10 system or another compatible system. A single electrical distribution transformer will service from three to eight homes. X10 signals can travel from one home to another when the electricity is being supplied from the same transformer.







House and Unit Code Dials
Don't use this setting!
A-1 is the most commonly used address.
Ninety percent of the time, changing the house code fixes the random signal problems. The most common housecodes used by newcomers to X10 are A, B, and C. Changing housecodes on your modules and transmitters to N, O, and P will reduce the chances of adjacent system interference. If your transmitter supports using higher unit number, using numbers nine through 16 will further cut down on the possibility interference. Some of the popular basic transmitters like the Mini-Timer #1100x and Mini-Controller #4030 will only control units one through eight. Wireless controllers and all the computer interfaces will support all 16 unit codes.

Question #2 
































I have heard that electrical noise can kill X10 signals, is it true and what can I do?

Electrical noise is anything that is on electricity lines that is not the 120 volts AC voltage at 60 Hertz. When an X10 transmitter sends a signal to a receiving module, the resulting signal is superimposed on the AC lines. Technically, it is noise, but since the signal is there by our action, it's the "good" kind of noise. X10 signals encounter problems is when there are other signals close in frequency and high in amplitude. The receiver module can't tell the difference between the X10 signal and the background noise.



Many of our Leviton X10 products have special circuits to allow them to operate on high noise electrical lines. These units have extra sensitive receivers that allow them to only tune in the X10 frequency. Many of the other high-end wall switches have additional circuitry to overcome the effects of electrical noise.

The most common sources of electrical noise that will knock out X10 signals are:

  • Plug-in wireless intercoms


  • HID lighting


  • Motors (refrigerator, heating systems, pumps)


  • Low-voltage lighting that uses solid-state transformers


  • Fluorescent-based lighting and ballast transformers


  • Failed or failing X10 transmitters, most commonly the TM-751 Transceiver Module


  • These devices emit electrical noise only when operating, so they can be difficult to detect. Additionally, not all of the devices listed above WILL cause noise, but they MAY. A device that has been noise-free for years may begin to dump excessive noise onto the AC lines as it begins fail or wear out.

    It can be a detective's job to find the offending device. The best way is to isolate the circuits one at a time. Start by turning off all the circuit breakers except one circuit for testing. Attach an X10 transmitter and an ApplianceLinc Appliance Module (both known good units). Attach a radio to the ApplianceLinc Appliance Module and turn it up. If you are sending signals from one room to another on the same circuit, you will be able to hear the radio turn on and off. I have used a 100' extension cord so I can be at my circuit breaker box and still send the ON and OFF signals. Most likely, with only one circuit active, it will work. Then turn on one circuit breaker and send some test signals to the ApplianceLinc Appliance Module, do you still hear the radio turning on and off? Continue to turn on the circuit breakers one at a time. Each time a new breaker is switched on, send some X10 ON and OFF signals to the test module.

    There will come a point when a circuit is turned on that the test fails. At this point, you have identified the circuit that is causing the problem. Turn off all the circuit breakers except that last one that caused the X10 signals to fail. Plug your transmitter and appliance module into that circuit. Then, begin to unplug things on that circuit one at a time. Don't just turn them off - you must unplug them! Each time a device is unplugged, do a signal test to the appliance module. Again, there will come a time when something you unplugged makes the signal test work. That last unit that was unplugged is the device that is killing the X10 signals. To fix the problem, install a filter between the electrical supply and the offending device. Use a FilterLinc Plug-in Filter or a wire-in filter like the Leviton Noise Block.

    Question #3 























    Occasionally, I'll come home and discover that some of my X10 controlled lights are on. How does this happen and what can I do?

    You may have a neighbor who has X10 and knows you have an X10 system. He stays up late blinking his X10 lights, because he has nothing better to do. Just like the first problem above where a X10 light came on at the same time every day, the X10 signals from another house may be coming into your home. The same advice mention above would apply to this problem.

    Computer InterfaceBe sure to check your home automation interface and timers for proper programming. From time to time, some interfaces become 'glitched' and transmit random codes. Or, perhaps the interface is properly transmitting but the times and dates are mis-set. Also, review the programming of the interface, you may find some events have been properly program, but have been forgotten about. Additionally, clearing the memory of the unit and reprogramming it from the data files on your computer may fix the problem. Procedures for clearing the interface may vary, please consult the documentation included with your interface.

    Mini-Timer ButtonIf you have one of our popular Mini-Timers or Wall Timers, review the second slot times. These units can send two ON and two OFF times per day. You may have a time programmed in one of the slots that you didn't know about. By sliding the switch on the timer to the "Review" setting and pressing the ON and OFF buttons TWICE for each unit, you can have it display the two programmed times. If you find one that doesn't belong, pressing the "Clear" button will delete that time.

    If the problem persists, it is possible that a 'spike' on the power line has triggered the module. When the utility company transfers power around the grid to balance demand, these microsecond switching events can reek havoc on X10, especially older modules. Although this should be a rare occurrence, it may help to fit a Whole House Surge Suppressor on the breaker panel. We offer several models on our web site here:



    Surge and GFCI Protection

    All these units contain a "spike suppressor" or M.O.V. (Metal Oxide Varistor). We recommend the basic Intermatic model for urban areas and the heaver-duty Leviton unit for rural areas and everywhere in the southeastern United States.

    If lamp and appliance modules turn on randomly, it is possible that the 'local control' feature is causing the problem. If the 120 volts power dips or browns out, it could cause the module to think that someone is trying to locally control the lamp or the appliance connected to the module. This will only be a problem with modules that have local control. Many of the older, brown-colored, modules are especially prone to this problem. Replacing these types of modules with new ones usually fixes the problem.

    updated 11/06/03





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