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morlock
Starting Member
USA
3 Posts |
Posted - 06/17/2012 : 6:05:24 PM
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I know this is probably a stupid question, but I'll ask since I love the pain. I'm currently restoring a historic home and I'm almost finished with electric in a few rooms. I'm trying to stay as close to the original look of the house (federal), but I'm dying to lay lighting and hvac automation into the house. Insteon seem the logical choice for me, but the problem I have is light switches; damn them. I just can't bring myself to put in the jetsons' light switches.
Is there anyway to retrofit push-button switches or have some kind of inline hidden control for lighting? I just can't live with myself to put sleek and modern with lath and plaster walls that are 150 years old.
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stusviews
Advanced Member
    
USA
8517 Posts |
Posted - 06/17/2012 : 6:59:48 PM
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You can use any dry contact switch (including the push-button with the nacre insert) in conjunction with an I/O Linc to send a signal any Insteon responder. You'll probably want/need a sophisticated controller such as the ISY.
An obstacle is that Insteon controllers remain, for the most part, in a neutral position enabling an On or Off at any time (i.e., momentary contact). The push-button switches remain in their last operated position and will often be out-of-sync with the load. Another difficulty is not being able to dim and brighten, although preset dim will still be available.
For the most part, you'll need at least two devices for each load effectively doubling the cost.
BTW, a few ago I installed a push-button switch that was more that 100 years old. It functioned like new. |
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morlock
Starting Member
USA
3 Posts |
Posted - 06/18/2012 : 10:54:45 AM
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Stusviews, Thanks for the quick reply. I've been looking at the I/O Linc, but for the life of me I can't understand how this would work.
Would the switch essentially open and close the low voltage contacts and the light would just be directly line powered to something like a 2475SDB?
Cost isn't a huge concern... I didn't go in on this one to make money.
I plan on setting up homeseer for the system wide control on this one.
They knew how to make things last then. I know people get down on knob and tube wiring, but we have plenty in the house now (deactivated). The quality of those installations are really pretty. Yes, it was low tech, but they spent time on making things look at fit well.
Thanks again |
Edited by - morlock on 06/18/2012 11:39:37 AM |
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stusviews
Advanced Member
    
USA
8517 Posts |
Posted - 06/18/2012 : 1:20:45 PM
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The standard switch connects to the sense terminals (using 28-16 AWG wire). The I/O Linc is set for Latching. An Insteon device, such as an In-LineLinc (ILL) is linked as a responder to the I/O Linc. If it's a dimmable I/O Linc, then you can optionally set the On-level and ramp rate.
The ILL will respond to the position of the push-button switch, On and Off. But, if another switch or scene also controls that light/load (i.e., remotely), the push-button can be out-of-sync and will require two pushes to resynchronize. |
Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today? MathLandia High school mathematics fun and learning. Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything. Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver. |
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morlock
Starting Member
USA
3 Posts |
Posted - 06/18/2012 : 2:06:16 PM
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I think I'm with you on this. I'm not too concerned with the IO Linc being out of sequence after a trigger. I don't think this will affect my plans much, but I understand the caveat.
Once additional question, would it be possible to link several mechanical switches in parallel so that any of them can trip the IO linc for a kind of signalling driven 3-4 way switch?
If I could just run ethernet to a wall switch for signalling, that would be pretty sweet... |
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stusviews
Advanced Member
    
USA
8517 Posts |
Posted - 06/18/2012 : 2:44:59 PM
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You cannot wire single-pole switches in parallel to emulate a multi-way circuit. Any one switch On will close the circuit, but all switches would need to be Off to open the circuit.
You can use standard multi-way wiring. Instead of: line-->3-way---travelers---optional 4-way(s)---travelers---3-way-->load use sense-->3-way---travelers---optional 4-way(s)---travelers---3-way-->gnd
Any 28-16 AWG wire, solid or stranded, is OK. Multi-way push-button switches are never/always out-of-sync. Simply press the protruding button to reverse the state of the load.
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Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today? MathLandia High school mathematics fun and learning. Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything. Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver. |
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dss
Senior Member
   
USA
313 Posts |
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stusviews
Advanced Member
    
USA
8517 Posts |
Posted - 06/20/2012 : 11:49:27 AM
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Nice find I don't believe the sense terminals on an I/O Linc can withstand the 12 volt pulse  |
Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today? MathLandia High school mathematics fun and learning. Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything. Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver. |
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dss
Senior Member
   
USA
313 Posts |
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stusviews
Advanced Member
    
USA
8517 Posts |
Posted - 06/20/2012 : 1:59:39 PM
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Much better description. I was wondering what generated the pulse (some switches do just that). Connect it to two I/O Lincs (one responds to sends an On, the other to sends Off) and it will function like a SwitchLinc Relay, including multi-way.
But, I don't believe it "Fits Standard GFI/Decora Cover Plates"  |
Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today? MathLandia High school mathematics fun and learning. Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything. Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver. |
Edited by - stusviews on 06/20/2012 2:37:03 PM |
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