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jackd
Junior Member
USA
47 Posts |
 Posted - 02/25/2012 : 6:14:00 PM
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I am looking at installing a SmartLinc Central Controller 2412N and while looking for all the switches that I need I see a 2 wire Dimmer 2474D that I would like to use to control a eyeball light to illuminate a fireplace. The end result is using the central controller to turn fireplace light on at sunset remotely using the controller and off at a fixed time.
The light is currently installed and has an analog push on rotary dimmer. I opened the switch box and it has 2 wires and to verify that the recessed light contains the neutral I opened it and it also contains only 2 wires. Both the switch box and recessed can were added after the house was built and are old work boxes, so I can pull both boxes out of the wall and ceiling to verify wires. So I assuming that both two wire cables go to another box (I have no idea of that location) where the real neutral and load wires are. What I think is happening is the hot lead is sent to the switch box and then back to the 'third box' and then on to the can as there is only 2 wires in the can. Obviously one of the wires in the can needs to be neutral so the bulb lights.
The question is since the companion switch has three leads, neutral, hot and load can this companion switch be wired in the recessed fixture to make this work properly. I think not but I'm looking for an opinion.
What I am confused about is the two wires in the recessed can will eventually have hot and neutral after the switch is activated but the companion switch will not have any voltage until the switch turns on. Once the main switch turns on there should not be a 120v drop across the switch so what keeps the companion switch energized? Am I just over thinking and making this more complex than it really is? The wiring diagram is looking for hot and neutral at the switch box and the companion has to see hot and neutral also and it looks to me that the only place I can install the companion with is at or in the third box. |
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oberkc
Advanced Member
USA
1705 Posts |
Posted - 02/25/2012 : 7:58:30 PM
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If I understand correctly, it sounds as if you have only a two conductors in each box and single conductor between the switch location and fixture location. How old is your house? Are there ground conductors in these boxes? Are these conductors separate from each other, or part of a single cable within a sheath (such as "romex")?
If I correctly understand your wiring, you may not be able to use insteon without adding additional cables. |
Edited by - oberkc on 02/25/2012 8:00:04 PM |
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jackd
Junior Member
USA
47 Posts |
Posted - 02/26/2012 : 09:35:52 AM
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The house is 42 years old. The wiring is 14-2 BX. The switch box has an analog rotary dimmer switch inline with the 14-2 and the recessed can has a 14-2 wire also and the lamp is across that.
I gave this some more thought and I see another box in an adjacent furnace room that was also added after the house was built and it appears to be somewhat between the can and switch box it may be the logical point that is the connection point for the house wiring.
If I get some time today I will see if I can see anything by opening that box up. If I open up the box I might be able to find which end has neutral and which end has hot. If this third box is the source of both cables I might be able to salvage this task.
Thanks for taking the time to reply. |
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oberkc
Advanced Member
USA
1705 Posts |
Posted - 02/26/2012 : 10:04:03 AM
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| If your wiring is 14-2 cable, and there is only a single cable in the fixture box and in the switch box, this suggests to me that there is an intermediate junction box somewhere. Lets us know what you find. |
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stusviews
Advanced Member
USA
8440 Posts |
Posted - 02/26/2012 : 2:21:44 PM
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Companion switch! Isn't that an X10 product?
If you are not able to find the junction box, there is still an Insteon solution. Install an In-LineLinc at the fixture and connect the switch wires together (or leave it on).
BTW, if you house is wired with BX, everything is grounded. Ground wires are not needed. |
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jackd
Junior Member
USA
47 Posts |
Posted - 02/26/2012 : 4:42:29 PM
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Companion switch is what Insteon calls it. Not sure what the grounded box via the BX cable has to do with this. I believe the electrical code says the only tie between neutral and ground can be in the power panel, although I could be wrong as I am not an electrician, by any measure.
Well, I took apart the box I referred to in an earlier past and this box is the source of the hot for my light switch and a junction box for BX headed to the recessed can. Looks like I should be able to use this product because I have all the wires in one place allowing me to tie the product together by creating the neutral in the switch and tie the switch to the dimmer directly. This is a 4x4 square box and has two receptacles that I use for my networking panel and a 120v CO detector. It is also deep and easily allows extra BX so I should be able to add another box in the same wall bay just to the right and relocate a receptacle from this box and have room for the dimmer part of this product without extending existing fixture or switch wires. Relocating the other receptacle is easy wiring and I can also add another receptacle so I don't need a power strip for any additional networking and the new Insteon controller. Since this product has no RF and can only use the neutral wire this should work great.
It should also get me started using this system so I can plan my kitchen renovation light plan and have it operational before I actually need it. I have a bunch of Lutron digital dimmers that I used in previous renovations that I would like to swap out so the controoler could do scene control on those also.
Thanks for responding. Helps to have another opinion or voice. |
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stusviews
Advanced Member
USA
8440 Posts |
Posted - 02/26/2012 : 6:13:36 PM
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Can you provide a link to the Insteon companion switch?
BTW, the grounding issue was a BTW. It didn't involve your now solved problem. |
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Tfitzpatri8
Administrator
USA
6880 Posts |
Posted - 02/26/2012 : 6:17:02 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by stusviews
Can you provide a link to the Insteon companion switch?
(He may be talking about the no-load wall switch that comes with the InLineLinc as part of the 2-wire kit. That's the only Insteon device I know of that has ever been referred to as a 'companion' switch.) |
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jackd
Junior Member
USA
47 Posts |
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jackd
Junior Member
USA
47 Posts |
Posted - 03/04/2012 : 7:03:20 PM
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Well, Just to update this thread I ordered a bunch of products and I'm finding this whole thing a little frustrating. I will start anther thread with some other problems that I am having but I installed the 2 Wire switch and actually got the 2 switches to control my light. It works as advertised using the paddle switch on the 'companion' switch, the one mounted on the wall.
I also ordered and installed an Insteon Central Controller item #2412N and tried to set it up. I got the controller on and configured but I had trouble getting the controller to link up to the switches. The instructions says to see the PDF for the controller for directions on how to set the sequence and the PDF does not discuss this particular switch.
After fumbling for a while I managed to follow the quick setup guide to put the switch in link mode and I was not able to link to the switch. My controller was on the other end of the house in my office and that seemed to also be a problem but my original problem was I could not update the room name. No matter what I tried it would not save the data I typed. I was using my iMac and Safari browser.
I decided that it didn't work but all the pictures show an iPhone so I tried to use it and it worked. So I finally got a room defined and then because I eventually was able to repeat the link sequence I still could not get the link to take. I then moved the Central controller to the same wall socket that I used to feed the 2 wire switch and it actually linked up and showed the two devices on the switch.
My next problem is the lamp shows on when the lamp is on. and off when off. If I turn the lamp on with the wall switch it shows on (yellow highlight) on the ON hot spot on the scene list. I can turn the lamp off from my iPhone but I cannot turn it back on.
The LED status lamp turns off just like it does when I hit the paddle manually but the light does not go on.
Out of gas tonight... Any suggestions?
BTW ... I also have an iMeter and I can't get that to properly connect either. I downloaded the iMeter bin file and downloaded it to the controller and scene 15 shows Thermostat and when I display that scene it indicates a thermostat. PDF seems to indicate that I must use this scene for the iMeter.
Out of gas on this one also ... Any suggestions??
Jack |
Edited by - jackd on 03/04/2012 7:05:38 PM |
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Tfitzpatri8
Administrator
USA
6880 Posts |
Posted - 03/04/2012 : 8:53:41 PM
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You are making substantial changes to how you control your home electric system, don't sweat the small stuff. We'll get you through it, one step at a time!
First, verify how you've installed the SmartLinc. It communicates using power line signals, so it is important that it not be attached to something designed to thwart power line signals--if it is attached to a device that includes a surge or noise filter or UPS, they can attempt to absorb passing Insteon signals. Either remove that source of interference or plug the SmartLinc into an extension cord so you can plug the other end into another outlet away from the interference.
Second, make sure you have two dual-band devices installed and that they are located where they pass the quad-tap Phase Bridging test built into them. Your utility provides power as two legs of 120 volts. About half the outlets and fixtures in the house are served by one leg, about half the other, and 220 volt heaters/appliances/ovens/stoves attach to both. The dual-band devices give signals a pathway to get from one half to the other.
Third, if your SmartLinc scene can turn a device off but not on, that indicates you missed a step when programming it. The steps are:
1. At the device to be added, turn the device on or off, depending on how you want it to respond to that scene.
2a. [Optional] Adjust the dimmer's level for the scene. Single-tap the Set button.
2b. [Optional] Adjust the dimmer's ramp rate for the scene. Double-tap the Set button. (The device should beep/blink only ONCE--if it responds twice, you didn't double-tap quickly enough, start back at step 1, next time doing the double-tap more quickly!)
3. Click Add on the SmartLinc scene. At the device to be added, hold the On side of the paddle for 10 seconds.
4. Turn the scene on and off to test.
If you don't turn the device on in step 1, you program it to respond to the scene with a level of Off.
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jackd
Junior Member
USA
47 Posts |
Posted - 03/05/2012 : 1:20:45 PM
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Thank you. One of the reasons I went ahead with this project and invested the initial $300 was this forum and the second was dual communication path available on each device. That dual comm path makes sense. I didn't want to deal with a help desk originating in some off shore country.
I installed the controller in my home office temporally while I got this thing running so I could watch it. The 2-wire switch was on the other end of the house that is why I moved the controller to the same circuit protector leg. There is no power strips or other equipment in the way. They are literally only inches away via the neutral leg. That is when I had some success.
I guess that I should unlink what I have now and start over and see what I get. I also have another RF capable dimmer switch in my original equipment order and I will install that on a circuit on the other side of my main CB panel so I can get the bridge.
I tried to customize the 'ON' sequence using a custom string but that did not work either. I don't remember reading that I should have the light set to the proper brightness before I create the link to the controller. I will also try that. I'm not sure of this but I think the lamp was on when I got the switch and the controller to link. I thought that might be the reason the 'ON' sequence wasn't working.
Jack
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jackd
Junior Member
USA
47 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2012 : 6:40:48 PM
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Well, I had trouble again getting the 2-wire to light to 'ON' status so I added another single dimmer (dual band) to the mix and it does the same thing. I can turn it off but not turn it on. I then reset the controller to factory and just did the single dual band dimmer and the same thing happened.
I reread the sequence and tried things faster and I was eventually able to get the dimmer to turn 'ON' and 'OFF' from my iPhone. Then I could set the ramp and on intensity correctly manually but could not transfer the desired 'scene' to the remote activation because every time I pressed the 'ON' paddle for ten seconds the lamp would go to max brightness during the scene capture.
Once I figured out that there was no way pressing the 'ON' paddle for 10 seconds would work I tried the set button and that transferred the scene to the controller.
I'm now understanding what needs to be done. I have the proper ramp up of speed and intensity stored.
Once you can control the lamp from the web by doing the add from the web app
[1] You need to turn the lamp to desired brightness.
[2] Then press the set button as quickly as humanly possible once and you will hear a single 'beep'.
[3] Then move the LED position to the desired ramp up time.
[4] Then press the set button as fast as humanly possible twice and you will hear a 'beep'.
[5] Then start the scene looking to add the setting by pressing the 'Add' and when it starts counting
[6] Then press the 'set' button for three seconds and on release it should 'beep'
[7] Then you can test. If it is good then save and return and you are done.
Tomorrow I will try to add the 2-wire modules and see if I can figure the sequence out. If I do I will document my procedure. Maybe it will help someone else.
Thanks for your help. I never would have figured that out from the manuals!
Jack |
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jackd
Junior Member
USA
47 Posts |
Posted - 06/05/2012 : 11:11:12 AM
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OK, I am back working on this project.
I can link and unlink the 2wire 2474D to a 2412N controller if it is attached to the same phase of the house wiring. This all seems normal so I added a 2477N Dual band dimmer to the opposite phase and found out after reading that I cannot contact that device without a phase bridge device or another 2477N dual band switch on the phase with the 2412N controller.
I ordered more 2477N dual band switches to add more function. I have big plans but I want to take my time building my inventory and make sure this will actually work reliably.
I added three more switches to my house wiring. A 2477N dual band and two 2476S non-dimming switchlinc relays. I configured the three additional switches and I now have a 2477N dual band switch on both phases and they are in direct line of sight about 25 feet from each other.
The new switches configured and work and indicate properly from my web browser on my iPad. Some times they do not properly show on or off status, however if I update the status they usually indicate correctly.
I am now attempting to automate all the switches. I configured each switch to turn on at sunset and each have three separate turn off times. One at 21:30, three at 22:00 and one at 24:00. The turn ons work randomly but the turn offs work as designed. I know this because if it is 15 minutes past sunset and some lights are on I turn the missing ones on manually and they all shutoff at the appropriate times, everytime.
Can someone give me a clue to my next step  I have some ideas but I would like some opinions 
I noticed that some parts of the day all commands to turning on and off with my iPad work without delay, the first time and indicate properly every time. However in the evening I cannot turn on one or two of the switches from the iPad or even indicate what the correct status,on or off, is on the iPad.
Once I resolve this I will take my next step but this needs to be reliable to keep investing more resources.
Jack |
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BLH
Advanced Member
3757 Posts |
Posted - 06/05/2012 : 11:34:47 AM
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What electrical devices are On during the time when communications are a problem?
Maybe one of the devices On at night is making power line noise or absorbing some of the Insteon signals.
Try turning off devices during the problem times and see if things improve.
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jackd
Junior Member
USA
47 Posts |
Posted - 06/05/2012 : 12:00:32 PM
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I though of that but there is not much on that isn't on during the day. In fact it starts to get flaky at 17:00 and that is long before it is dark and I have pretty much the same things on two or three hours earlier. I will attempt to sample and when I get a repeatable pattern I try to look at what is on and isolate if I can.
I have another 2477D dual switch that I can add but I was hoping that I could get better resolution before adding it.
How do the commands get replicated from each switch? One of my theories was that I was stepping on commands when trying to do 5 switches at the same time. It doesn't seem to be part of the configuration options to have a delay or advance from sunset. It seems that the most reliable switches are the ones that are in very close proximity. They are all in the same large ganged box and share a common neutral. |
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Tfitzpatri8
Administrator
USA
6880 Posts |
Posted - 06/05/2012 : 12:22:13 PM
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If you have all the switches linked to the same scene, a single scene command cascades out simultaneously to all members at the appointed time and they all respond as programmed simultaneously. If all members don't react to that first message, interference is getting in the way, and the controller has to correspond directly with each scene member one at a time to get it to turn on.
Do communications start having trouble after you plug a particular computer or phone in to charge in the evening? Is the SmartLinc plugged into something that absorbs signals, a power line surge or noise arrester or UPS? |
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jackd
Junior Member
USA
47 Posts |
Posted - 06/05/2012 : 12:49:52 PM
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All the switches are not on the same scene. I could not figure out how to turn them off at different times if I did.
If the controller send a command does it repeat if it doesn't get a response from the switch
I moved the controller today and it was not on filtered outlet and will be sitting on an outlet not associated with a power strip or UPS. It moved from my office to my utility room where I have all my communications and networking gear. it will now be on the other side of the house on the other neutral leg, maybe it will make a difference.
I installed a power iMeter 2324A1 earlier and downloaded the firmware to the controller to support it but I have not been able to get it to respond properly to the controller. The firmware on the controller is one of my concerns. I know the iMeter is working because I also have an Insteon Energy Display 2448A2 and it works.
Current level PLM version is 92 with firmware at 3.1 Build Sep 16 and the problem I am having is that it always says thermostat and will not configure the iMeter although it will show the ID of the iMeter during setup. |
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Tfitzpatri8
Administrator
USA
6880 Posts |
Posted - 06/05/2012 : 1:13:15 PM
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00:00 is not a valid on or off time. If you schedule an On or an Off timer for 00:00, it will never execute, so you have the flexibility to set scenes to only turn on, only turn off, or to do both.
Create a Sunset scene, then add all units that you want to turn on at Sunset. Schedule the On time for Sunset and leave the off time at 00:00 so the scene will turn on but not off. That way your outside lights, living room lights and kitchen lights can all turn on at the same time without being restricted to a common Off time.
You can then create other scenes that have only some units as members and have no scheduled On time, just a scheduled Off time. You could schedule the porch lights scene to turn down at 9pm, the garden lights scene to turn off at 10pm, the Living Room lights to turn off at 11pm, etc.
Insteon controllers first send a command to the entire scene, and it gets repeated throughout the network. Then the controller confirms that each member received the message, and that confirmation cascades throughout the network. If the controller doesn't hear a responder acknowledgement then it retries. The controller will abandon cleanup attempts eventually to prevent retries from taking over your network (if someone unplugs a device, for instance) and retries are aborted automatically if another controller initiates its own control sequence (so that one device experiencing signal difficulties doesn't negatively affect performance of all other units in the house). |
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jackd
Junior Member
USA
47 Posts |
Posted - 06/06/2012 : 6:42:04 PM
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My turn on sequence failed as usual and I verified flaky or sluggish performance so I went about turning off appliances and lights. I have 3 Leviton indoor timers that have an astronomical times to set on outside sidewalk and driveway lights. One of the timers appears to be noisy and the culprit in my controller issues. I will consider replacing the defective switch with a switchlinc version.
I set up scenes as you suggested and I can successfully start and stop all five interior Insteon programable switches reliably unless that single timer is on. 
Tonight I turned off the noisy switch so it would not interfere and allowed my new scenes to control my porch and interior accent lights. Three of five turned on. Interestingly enough the two that failed were two of three in the same common box with a shared neutral. after 10 minutes I restarted my 'sunset' scene and one of the two started. Five minutes later I started the scene again and the final missing switch activated.
I guess I will need to try again tomorrow with all of the Leviton timers off. Bottom line is there has been progress.
Sure doesn't sound like I am getting the proper retry events, especially if switches in the same box don't preform the same. |
Edited by - jackd on 06/06/2012 6:43:27 PM |
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Tfitzpatri8
Administrator
USA
6880 Posts |
Posted - 06/06/2012 : 7:09:01 PM
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Is it the switch generating the noise, or is it the switch's load? If it is the latter, swapping switches won't do anything to reduce noise generated by the load. If that's the case, you'd need to relocate or isolate the noisy load with a filter.
Since the issue seems time-related and removing the first timer device improved communications somewhat but didn't fix the issue entirely, I would disable the other two and retest several times. They or their loads may be producing noise intermittently or at varying volumes, and the effect may well be cumulative. Think of it like us both stopped in side-by-side cars at a red light, rolling down our windows to ask about the wife and kids. We might do fine at first, but if a truck rolls down the cross-street and a cabbie honks his horn at the same time... |
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stusviews
Advanced Member
USA
8440 Posts |
Posted - 06/06/2012 : 8:30:50 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by jackd
I configured the three additional switches and I now have a 2477N dual band switch on both phases and they are in direct line of sight about 25 feet from each other.
How have you ensured that you have at least one dual-band device on each leg of the split single-phase electric supply. Just being in line-of-sight is not adequate. |
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jackd
Junior Member
USA
47 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2012 : 08:37:57 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by Tfitzpatri8
Is it the switch generating the noise, or is it the switch's load? If it is the latter, swapping switches won't do anything to reduce noise generated by the load. If that's the case, you'd need to relocate or isolate the noisy load with a filter.
Hmmm.. I had not considered the load or a defective dimmer south of the astronomical switch. I have three very similar configurations. I designed it that way so I had flexibility to easily manipulate what was turned on and the intensity of the halogen lights. They are at different levels from the ground so they produce different patterns of light.
I designed the scheme to have LED lights but two years ago it was not cost effective to put a dozen PAR20 LED bulbs at $50+ a piece. My cost analysis spreadsheets said I wouldn't break even for 12 years, providing I did not get any early end of life failures. 
quote:
Originally posted by Tfitzpatri8
the issue seems time-related and removing the first timer device improved communications somewhat but didn't fix the issue entirely, I would disable the other two and retest several times.
I decided to change the log/lat 100 miles east to move the sunset time earlier and come on before the Leviton times and therefore eliminate startup interaction.. They seem to go off a few minutes ahead so my earliest turnoff should not be effected. Once I know that my problem has been 'resolved' or mitigated I will look into what is actually causing the issue. The circuit that is the most troublesome has the timer that feeds a digital Lutron dimmer that feeds 5 PAR20 halogen lamps mounted under an overhang along my front walk. They are dimmed to about 40%. Another circuit has three PAR20 lamps with a dimmer and the third has three also with a dimmer and a standard lamp with a garden light at the end of a stone wall. To complicate matters this circuit also has 110v LED (non-dimmed) step lights on the same stone wall.
quote:
Originally posted by Tfitzpatri8
or their loads may be producing noise intermittently or at varying volumes, and the effect may well be cumulative.
Good thought. Once I'm confident that I have the issue surrounded I can pick at the contents. I really don't want to change all the timers and dimmers for the exterior lights because it works and performs perfectly, at least until this noise issue surfaced.
quote:
Originally posted by stusviews
How have you ensured that you have at least one dual-band device on each leg of the split single-phase electric supply. Just being in line-of-sight is not adequate.
I originally had two Insteon switches installed with the controller. I could use both switches but only one at a time, depending on what outlet I plugged the controller into. Somehow I incorrectly assumed the controller was dual band. On my second wave of switches I installed my second dual band switch on a circuit that was on the opposite side of the main panel. Moving the controller was no longer necessary but I did move it to its final spot in with my communications gear in the furnace room. I chose the location to install the dual band switch so it would be as close as possible physically. It is on opposite side of a open concept kitchen/dining/sitting area we are creating. Hence the reason for all the fancy lighting schemes.
Once I resolve this issue I can concentrate on the next project which is to highlight the new cabinets, range hood and island we will install. I will order sample LED strips and power packs that need MLV dimmers. I did some searches in the archives and I find that Insteon switches seem to be able to drive 12v WAC LED strips, even though no one officially supports it. |
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stusviews
Advanced Member
USA
8440 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2012 : 10:34:20 AM
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Opposite side of electric panels are NOT connected to opposite legs of the split single-phase electric supply. In most panels, the legs alternate vertically, not horizontally. That means that the top breakers on opposite sides are on the SAME leg. The next level down are on opposite legs. They continue to alternate unless they are half-height breakers which are on the same leg.
Full height breakers
A A
B B
A A
B B
A A
B B
etc.
Half-height breakers
A A
A A
B B
B B
A A
A A
B B
B B
etc.
They can even be mixed
A A
B B
A A
A A
B B
A A
etc.
Unless you did the wiring yourself or are intrinsically involved with the wiring. you MUST use the 4-tap test. |
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jackd
Junior Member
USA
47 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2012 : 1:46:07 PM
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Good information.
I probably should have added that I also did the 4 quick tap test... When I did that and the opposite Dual switch blinked. |
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stusviews
Advanced Member
USA
8440 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2012 : 2:23:17 PM
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Good information, also. Unfortunately, not good enough 
Depending on the particular device AND the revision of that device, blinking can indicate coupling is occurring or that coupling is not occurring. The color also matters. |
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jackd
Junior Member
USA
47 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2012 : 7:06:08 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by stusviews
Good information, also. Unfortunately, not good enough
Depending on the particular device AND the revision of that device, blinking can indicate coupling is occurring or that coupling is not occurring. The color also matters.
I tried the test again and the first switch starts beeping and the second has the low LED on the side strip blinking. I could be blue or light green. I can't tell because I am color blind to some light pastel colors especially green. If this still doesn't answer the color question I will have to wait till someone comes home that sees all colors... |
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stusviews
Advanced Member
USA
8440 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2012 : 11:39:01 PM
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The particular color and whether it blinks or is solid or is bright or dim depends on the particular device and revision of that device. There is no one general rule for all devices. No single device makes you choose a hard to discern difference such as blue or green. Fortunately, the different indications for each particular device is made easily discernible.
The first device and second device do not need to be the same, but the indication must be appropriate for that particular device. |
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jackd
Junior Member
USA
47 Posts |
Posted - 06/09/2012 : 5:03:55 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by stusviews
The particular color and whether it blinks or is solid or is bright or dim depends on the particular device and revision of that device. There is no one general rule for all devices. No single device makes you choose a hard to discern difference such as blue or green. Fortunately, the different indications for each particular device is made easily discernible.
The first device and second device do not need to be the same, but the indication must be appropriate for that particular device.
Well, the indication is the same from both devices. I am told that the color is blinking white as that is the color of my LED strip. I believe I do have communication on both neutrals because I could not communicate to the two original Insteon switches from the controller at the sametime. To communicate I needed to move the controller to a different outlet. Once I installed the second dual switch I can.
Bottom line here is the full owners manual says tha a blinking white light is not good but if I had the LED strip with a green filter the manual would be correct. I think the manual needs updating to indicate the correct location of the LED that will blink, not the color. If the room is dark the bottom set LED button will faintly blink but I think that is just over flow from the light stip. |
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jackd
Junior Member
USA
47 Posts |
Posted - 06/09/2012 : 5:32:44 PM
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I dug deeper into my noise problem and it looks like it is being generated from two 110v LEDs I use to light some outside stairs. Those LEDs are switched on by a timer and with this timer off I do not experience any issues controlling the Insteon switches. The timer also powers a Leviton digital dimmer. Both LED lights feed from the load input on the dimmer. They daisy chain, once outside, from the first one to the other.
If I disconnect the last one in the chain the noise is not present. If I swap the last one to the first one it also works if the second one is not wired. Taking the removed first one and attaching it on the end causes noise again when the controller attempts to start scenes with the LEDs active. All wiring is correct, neutral to neutral, line to line and all grounds are present and attached. I metered with a digital meter and with all wires disconnected they all have the continuity I expect..
I see there is a Leviton 6287 noise block ( suppression filter ) for sale. Does anyone have experience with this device? Looks like it might work but before I order I thought I would look for opinions or other suggestions. |
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oberkc
Advanced Member
USA
1705 Posts |
Posted - 06/09/2012 : 5:59:04 PM
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quote:
Does anyone have experience with this device?
Yes. They work for me. |
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Topic |
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2 wire 2474D wiring
