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flyboy001sm
Starting Member
USA
12 Posts |
 Posted - 11/06/2011 : 5:13:29 PM
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I have a SwitchLinc Dimmer which just stopped responding.
-- Lights are on full, regardless of what I do with the switch. (Although the LED indicator cycles up and down as expected - just doesn't control the light...)
-- Two KeypadLinc Dimmers (one of their other buttons) are also set as controllers with this switch as a responder, but they no longer control the SwitchLinc Dimmer.
-- I have tried doing the factory reset on the switch. Pulling out the set button does disconnect the load and LED power as expected. Pushing back in and holding does beep as expected but lights come on to full and are unresponsive, just as before the reset.
-- No new changes to INSTEON network or wiring of any devices. Everything was working as expected until this evening.
Any other troubleshoothing thoughts, or should I chalk it up to a failed unit and just replace it?
Thanks for any advice.
Scott.
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Edited by - flyboy001sm on 11/06/2011 5:18:51 PM |
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Tfitzpatri8
Administrator
USA
6962 Posts |
Posted - 11/06/2011 : 5:23:11 PM
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It sounds like there is either a wiring issue or the triac in the dimmer is burnt out and stuck. Is this switch at a location that used to be a traditional 3-way switch? You would have to rule out wiring issues before you could determine with any certainty whether the switch hardware is at fault. If you uninstall the switch, wire it to a plug-in utility cord and attach a lamp to the neutral and load wires, can you then turn the light on and off?
Which model dimmer is it? What was the dimmer's load type and wattage? |
Volunteer Moderator & Home Automation Enthusiast |
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flyboy001sm
Starting Member
USA
12 Posts |
Posted - 11/06/2011 : 5:41:06 PM
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Yep - caught the typo right after I posted. I meant "SwitchLinc Dimmer" - a 2477D v 6.40.
It's in a normal single switch location - not a former 3-way - and it's controlling 200w (4 x 50w halogens)
The wiring is fine, as I have been using it and the rest of my network for weeks without any changes, and all has been working as expected until this sudden stoppage.
Before I pull the SwitchLink Dimmer out of the wall, I wanted to make sure I've exhaused other troubleshooting/reset options. I have a replacement on order now, and once I get a new one in the wall, I can take more time with out-of-wall troubleshooting.
Thanks.
Scott.
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Tfitzpatri8
Administrator
USA
6962 Posts |
Posted - 11/06/2011 : 5:56:38 PM
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The only times you would see the LED on a switch not track the dimmer is if a) the light isn't physically connected to the load wire on the switch (as in the case in a 2-wire installation where it is linked to an InLineLinc dimmer or part of a virtual 3-way installation), b) two different controls were physically attached to the same load, or c) the dimmer triac died.
I mentioned scenario b) because it can come into play weeks after an install and normal operation when someone flips an infrequently used or inconveniently located switch that supplies the load via an alternate electric pathway. That's why removing the switch and testing with a utility cord is ordinarily worth the time. The SwitchLinc Dimmer has a 2 year warranty. |
Volunteer Moderator & Home Automation Enthusiast |
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BLH
Advanced Member
3792 Posts |
Posted - 11/07/2011 : 03:07:09 AM
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If it is stuck full ON even after a power cycling Off and On with the air gap switch.
It has probably failed. |
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kvander51
Average Member
62 Posts |
Posted - 08/07/2012 : 2:26:13 PM
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I have a client with a similar issue, but it is intermittent. The switch will turn on but occasionally, once on, it will not turn off with the paddle. I am not sure about remotely (via his iPhone).
I will try testing the switch in an isolated manner as suggested.
This switch was working fine until the client replaced the bulbs in his fixture with dimmable LEDs that are only a few watts each - total load is probably under 150 watts. There is an additional fixture on the same load that has 3 incandescent pendant lights (about 35 watts each). Could mixing LEDs and incandescents on the same load cause the problem? |
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kvander51
Average Member
62 Posts |
Posted - 08/07/2012 : 2:54:05 PM
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Update to previous post:
Client informed me that with dimmer set at about 50% brightness, after some time the lights will go to full brightness by themselves, but the SwitchLinc LED indicator remains at mid-level. When this happens he cannot turn off the lights. |
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BLH
Advanced Member
3792 Posts |
Posted - 08/07/2012 : 3:10:07 PM
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If they pull the air gap switch for maybe a minute then gently just push it back to normal {not to the full in reset position}. Does it again start working?
It could be the dimmable CFLs are making power line noise strong enough to make the microcontroller in the SwitchLinc get confused.
There is a problem with some dimmable CFLs and LED bulbs. Though they may only draw 10 watts. Inrush current and repetitive peek current may make it act more like a 75 to 115 watt bulb. For example the LSG 6" 15 watt Glimpse LED down light should count as 115 watt for a load on a dimmer switch.
Many manufacturers don't mention that fact in the sales literature. |
Edited by - BLH on 08/07/2012 3:26:52 PM |
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kvander51
Average Member
62 Posts |
Posted - 08/07/2012 : 3:55:45 PM
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Okay, since he has 4 fixtures with three bulbs each for a total of 12 LEDs (plus the three pendants), would replacing his current 600 watt SwitchLinc with the 1,000 watt version fix this?
One potential problem with the 1,000 watt device is it will be located in a 2-gang box next to a single-pole Decora-style switch so some of the heat sink tabs would need to be removed, correct? So if I remove the tabs on one side, will the resulting 800 watt capacity be enough to handle the 12 LEDs plus three small incandescents? |
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kvander51
Average Member
62 Posts |
Posted - 08/07/2012 : 4:08:42 PM
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| BLH - two more comments. 1. These are dimmable LEDs, not CFLs. Does that make a difference (ie. generate noise like CFLs)? 2. I will have him try the air gap technique and see what happens. |
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BLH
Advanced Member
3792 Posts |
Posted - 08/07/2012 : 4:59:44 PM
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I don't know if the 1000 watt SwitchLincs would correct the problems.
I thought the latest 1000 watt units don't have big heat sinks just bigger mounting tabs to absorb the added heat.
My comments on wattages was for dimmable LEDs. I have been told dimmable CFLs have similar current requirements.
I have tested two Philips dimmable LEDs and a Home Depot Ecosmart dimmable LED bulb. They didn't make noise on my X10 test meters and didn't seem to absorb signal either.
Finding the number of bulbs for a dimmer maybe buried in the bulbs technical sheet or users sheet. So what bulb you Client is using may determine how many they recommend on lets say a 600 watt dimmer switch.
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stusviews
Advanced Member
USA
8516 Posts |
Posted - 08/07/2012 : 7:17:25 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by kvander51
This switch was working fine until the client replaced the bulbs in his fixture with dimmable LEDs that are only a few watts each - total load is probably under 150 watts. There is an additional fixture on the same load that has 3 incandescent pendant lights (about 35 watts each). Could mixing LEDs and incandescents on the same load cause the problem?
Yes, as each has different requirements. The first thing to try is to provide only one type of load by disconnecting or unscrewing all other bulbs. To begin, try with the incandescent bulbs only. |
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kvander51
Average Member
62 Posts |
Posted - 08/07/2012 : 7:34:53 PM
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| Great minds think alike! I instructed my client to do just that about an hour ago. We'll see what happens, and I will update. Thanks! |
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Topic |
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SwitchLinc Dimmer - Stopped Responding
