| Author |
Topic  |
|
|
handman5
Starting Member
3 Posts |
Posted - 10/10/2012 : 1:53:56 PM
|
| I had a three year old Icon dimmer that I unfortunately didn't need to install when I received it. When one of my older Icons recently failed, I replaced it with the one from 2009 (ver 4.3). It seemed to operate normally when I flipped the switch a few times, but then stopped working (200W incandescent load). The status light is out and the switch is unresponsive. I have air gapped with no luck. The status light only illuminates when the air gap lever is pushed in. No luck on warranty from SH, so I am wondering if anyone knows or might have heard what part(s) might have failed. I will pull it apart and see if anything looks like it has failed, but if anyone recalls hearing about this I would be grateful if you could reply. |
|
|
Oztronix
Average Member
  
USA
65 Posts |
Posted - 10/10/2012 : 5:26:07 PM
|
Here is a link to another thread discussing plastic zener diodes used in Icon dimmer switches which were failing. The thread starts off with the plug in dimmers but later on brings up the in-wall dimmer switches.
http://www.smarthome.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7701&whichpage=1&SearchTerms=zener%2Cdiode
I had two that failed, ordered/installed the zener diodes and the switches have been fine since. |
Oz |
Edited by - Oztronix on 10/10/2012 5:29:00 PM |
 |
|
|
handman5
Starting Member
3 Posts |
Posted - 10/10/2012 : 10:57:09 PM
|
| Thanks for the reply. Sure enough the D3 zener diode is gone. The PCB looks OK compared to some of the cooked ones in the link you gave. The diode is just not there. Was your problem with an Icon 2876? If so, did you just board mount the replacement, or did you elevate the replacement zener diode like the electrical engineer in the other post? Did you buy the diode in the link, or did you find something closer to OEM? Thanks again for your input. |
 |
|
|
majkman
Junior Member
 
USA
54 Posts |
Posted - 10/11/2012 : 05:10:56 AM
|
| I purchased a pack of 20 or 25 on eBay, 30 V 1 Watt zener. They arrive in a few weeks, something like $3 for the lot delivered. Air mounting is much easier, and I use a '3rd hand' with a magnifying glass built in. About a 75 percent resuscitation rate. |
 |
|
|
handman5
Starting Member
3 Posts |
Posted - 10/19/2012 : 3:44:24 PM
|
Well, for what it's worth, my attempt to revive ended in failure. I went with the "air" mount and a cylindrical diode. I bought a really fine tipped soldering iron tip to do the tight soldering onto the pads. I soldered stranded wire to get a good joint with the idea of "remoting" the diode to an open space in the switch. Unfortunately I ended up pulling a pad off, not during soldering, but while pulling heat shrink onto the joint between the diode and the wire - my own carelessness. I have no idea how to solder the wire into the mystery conductor on the PCB, so the project was a loss. This is a delicate operation and best left to those with the fortitude and time to repair. I am guessing that diode replacement on the LampLincs is a lot easier than on the PCBs of the Icons and SwitchLincs.  |
 |
|
|
TonyNo
Starting Member
USA
1 Posts |
Posted - 12/16/2012 : 5:35:41 PM
|
I just had one of these die and it was D3, the zener. Toast, just like the others here.
Last time this one died, I simply added a replaceable fuse on the AC line and it was good. FYI, this had been running an old-school, halogen touchier at 50%. |
 |
|
| |
Topic  |
|