| Author |
Topic  |
|
|
americanslon
Junior Member
 
USA
31 Posts |
Posted - 10/05/2012 : 2:50:31 PM
|
I only have 3 wires coming out of the wall Neutral, Line and Ground. Is it possible to wire switch linc without Netural and Load from the fixture itself? Essentially I don't have anything to connect switchlinc's read Load wire to.
Thank you. |
|
|
Tfitzpatri8
Administrator
    
USA
6886 Posts |
Posted - 10/05/2012 : 2:57:08 PM
|
That sounds like you have a switch leg. In that case, that white wire is not a neutral, it is a wire going to the load.
Are you sure you don't have another bundle of wires stuffed into the back of the box? What kind of load are you controlling, an outlet, in-wall or in-ceiling fixtures, or something else? Is the load a dimmable incandescent or something else?
If the load is incandescent and over 25 watts, you can use one of these dimmers instead: http://www.smarthome.com/2474DWH/SwitchLinc-2-Wire-Dimmer-INSTEON-Remote-Control-Dimmer-RF-White/p.aspx
If not, you will need to add an InLineLinc behind the fixture and change the wiring so that the two wires from the fixture to the switch actually carry unswitched hot and neutral. Then you can just cap off the red Load wire and electronically link the two devices to control the light. |
Volunteer Moderator & Home Automation Enthusiast |
 |
|
|
stusviews
Advanced Member
    
USA
8461 Posts |
Posted - 10/05/2012 : 3:14:53 PM
|
quote: Originally posted by Tfitzpatri8
That sounds like you have a switch leg. In that case, that white wire is not a neutral, it is a wire going to the load.
If the wiring was done correctly, then the white wire is the line (it should, but doesn't always, have color tape on it) and the black wire is the switch return (load).
In any case, the white wire is not a neutral. |
Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today? MathLandia High school mathematics fun and learning. Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything. Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver. |
 |
|
|
americanslon
Junior Member
 
USA
31 Posts |
Posted - 10/05/2012 : 3:24:53 PM
|
It's an overhead light. So incandescent and over 25W. So this is the situation where the 2-Wite switchlinc is used? Up until now I have only installed switchlincs on light fixtures to which I had complete access to so I was able to get to both sets of wires (from the circuit and from the fixture) and was wondering what the 2-Wire on was for. Is there a dual band version of 2-wire switch linc? I couldn't find it. Thanks |
 |
|
|
stusviews
Advanced Member
    
USA
8461 Posts |
Posted - 10/05/2012 : 3:28:53 PM
|
That's exactly what the Insteon 2-wire switch is for.
BTW, a dual-band device (both RF and powerline) requires both line and neutral. It does not require a load.
Edit: the 2-wire switch will function in a 3-way setup, contrary to what the sales page states. |
Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today? MathLandia High school mathematics fun and learning. Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything. Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver. |
Edited by - stusviews on 10/05/2012 4:04:34 PM |
 |
|
|
americanslon
Junior Member
 
USA
31 Posts |
Posted - 10/05/2012 : 4:34:02 PM
|
Thankfully I don't have any 3-way setups yet. As a noob I find this confusing as is:) I ordered the 2-Wire, Thanks for your help guys
P.S.
While I have your attention quick question. Which wall plate match the switchlincs? |
 |
|
|
stusviews
Advanced Member
    
USA
8461 Posts |
Posted - 10/05/2012 : 5:08:25 PM
|
| None that I've found match the "new" white. |
Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today? MathLandia High school mathematics fun and learning. Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything. Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver. |
 |
|
|
americanslon
Junior Member
 
USA
31 Posts |
Posted - 10/12/2012 : 2:41:20 PM
|
Hello again gurus of electrical wiring/ home automation. So I got the two wire dimmer and connected it to the wall according what stusviews said - line to white and load to black. What I got was slow blinking. It doesn't flicker but essentially the switch turns on and off every second or so. So I thought maybe the wiring in my place wasn't done right so I switched load and line and I get the exact same behavior. Thoughts? Thanks. |
 |
|
|
BLH
Advanced Member
    
3759 Posts |
Posted - 10/12/2012 : 2:57:46 PM
|
Are the bulbs in the load incandescent? Those are the only type the switch is made to control.
|
 |
|
|
americanslon
Junior Member
 
USA
31 Posts |
Posted - 10/12/2012 : 3:29:47 PM
|
| Yes they are. |
 |
|
|
BLH
Advanced Member
    
3759 Posts |
Posted - 10/12/2012 : 3:40:50 PM
|
Thanks for the added date. They are at least 40 watts?
I wounder if the switch was wired to switch the bulbs Neutral side and the Line is on the bulb itself?
|
 |
|
|
americanslon
Junior Member
 
USA
31 Posts |
Posted - 10/12/2012 : 5:09:37 PM
|
They are at least 40w. If it helps this is your standard over head light in the hallway control by a normal no 3 way on/off switch. Nothing that I would think would require any special wiring when built. Does it sound like it could be a defective switch? |
 |
|
|
stusviews
Advanced Member
    
USA
8461 Posts |
Posted - 10/12/2012 : 5:34:10 PM
|
Seems like a loose connection or bulb. Check all connections, even those at the fixture, change the bulb. If all fails to help, then it may be the switch. A sure way to tell is the try the switch somewhere else.
My testing apparatus consists of a 6-foot extension cord cut with about 2 feet at the plug end. I use is to power devices and plug a known good lamp in as a test. You can disregard the ground wire during testing. |
Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today? MathLandia High school mathematics fun and learning. Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything. Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver. |
 |
|
| |
Topic  |
|