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frankjw
Senior Member
USA
235 Posts |
 Posted - 09/08/2012 : 2:33:14 PM
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that Insteon has redesigned the worst aspect of these switches. Have they fixed the reset button? You can't pull it out with anything less than a pair of needle nose pliers and by the time you get a hold of it you have destroyed the switch. I did just that with one of my KPL's that I got 7 years ago and now because I can't reset it I have to spend money to buy a new one to replace it.
Or it would also be nice if you didn't have to reset these everytime you lose power. I pray to god the new KPL's are better at this. |
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stusviews
Advanced Member
USA
8463 Posts |
Posted - 09/08/2012 : 2:43:22 PM
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| To reset the KPL, turn off power to it for more than 10 seconds then turn the power back on. That's it! |
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Tfitzpatri8
Administrator
USA
6888 Posts |
Posted - 09/08/2012 : 6:10:52 PM
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| FYI, pliers would put the wrong kind of stresses on the air gap lever, tending to bend it until it breaks rather than grasp it to pull it to the open circuit position. A better option is to use a small, flat blade screwdriver under the lip and the tip of your finger above to pull straight out. |
Volunteer Moderator & Home Automation Enthusiast |
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BLH
Advanced Member
3761 Posts |
Posted - 09/09/2012 : 04:53:08 AM
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Some of the old revision hardware relay type modules. Didn't have an Air Gap Switch and used a different reset method.
Was your KeypadLinc a relay type? It may not have had an Air Gap Switch. I know the old SwitchLinc relays didn't.
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frankjw
Senior Member
USA
235 Posts |
Posted - 09/13/2012 : 5:40:33 PM
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| I had the air gap. I tried the fingernail method. Almost ripped my nail off. I tried the small flat head screw driver. It just rips off the plastic tab. Why do they make these air gaps this way. There has to be better engineering than this.How about something like GFC circuits user? Just push a small button to reset. |
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frankjw
Senior Member
USA
235 Posts |
Posted - 09/13/2012 : 5:42:11 PM
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| Or how about this one. Floppy drives and cd drives all have pin holes to push the eject manually. That would eve be better. Get a paper clip and push the reset button that way. This air gap pulling method has got to go. |
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stusviews
Advanced Member
USA
8463 Posts |
Posted - 09/13/2012 : 6:12:22 PM
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I agree that an easier method would be an improvement, but - the air gap has three positions, disable power, enable power, and factory reset. Both of your examples deal with only two. In fact, the GFCI requires a separate button for each of its two functions, enable, disable power.
Also, consider that two of the three positions on the air gap are latching and one is momentary. |
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EVIL Teken
Advanced Member
Canada
968 Posts |
Posted - 09/13/2012 : 6:19:50 PM
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The switchlinc timer is one of those devices where the air gap is NOT present. Very disappointed that Smarthome killed off this great product!
Teken . . . |
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stusviews
Advanced Member
USA
8463 Posts |
Posted - 09/13/2012 : 6:29:38 PM
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| The Owner's Manual indicates that it does. I don't have one, so I can't verify for the accuracy of the manual. |
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Tfitzpatri8
Administrator
USA
6888 Posts |
Posted - 09/13/2012 : 10:39:17 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by EVIL Teken
The switchlinc timer is one of those devices where the air gap is NOT present. Very disappointed that Smarthome killed off this great product!
Didn't the SwitchLinc Timer use the same hardware platform as the SwitchLinc Relay, only with different firmware? That would explain why early-production units would have no air gap, while later units (based on the newer platform) would. |
Volunteer Moderator & Home Automation Enthusiast |
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EVIL Teken
Advanced Member
Canada
968 Posts |
Posted - 09/14/2012 : 04:30:16 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by Tfitzpatri8
quote:
Originally posted by EVIL Teken
The switchlinc timer is one of those devices where the air gap is NOT present. Very disappointed that Smarthome killed off this great product!
Didn't the SwitchLinc Timer use the same hardware platform as the SwitchLinc Relay, only with different firmware? That would explain why early-production units would have no air gap, while later units (based on the newer platform) would.
I really can't say why. Other than the fact when I purchased 5 of these things about two years ago. I was shocked to find out there was no method to use the air gap.
As there is physically no contact in the back of the device. I believe BLH / LeeG provided me with a older revision of the install manual as to how to perform a air gap.
At the end of the day the SwitchLinc Timer Relay was a fantastic product and I hope someday it does come back.  Those with out a HA controller have no other recourse.
I also liked having it because no matter what. The user always had a hardware timer of 15 minutes, 1,2,3,etc hours along with the one minute blink.
Simply an outstanding product and idea from whom ever thought of it!
Teken . . . |
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stusviews
Advanced Member
USA
8463 Posts |
Posted - 09/14/2012 : 12:15:02 PM
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The KeypadLinc Timer can be set to eight intervals from 2 min to 4 hrs, displays the amount of time left including the one minute blink, can now be set for On/Off only (i.e., inductive loads), and the timer can be controlled remotely. That last feature was not possible with the SwitchLinc timer.
And it has an air gap  |
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EVIL Teken
Advanced Member
Canada
968 Posts |
Posted - 09/14/2012 : 6:46:06 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by stusviews
The KeypadLinc Timer can be set to eight intervals from 2 min to 4 hrs, displays the amount of time left including the one minute blink, can now be set for On/Off only (i.e., inductive loads), and the timer can be controlled remotely. That last feature was not possible with the SwitchLinc timer.
And it has an air gap
Yeah I know. But, I have quite a few KPL's deployed through out the home and am trying to keep the home modern / hi tech with out over doing it.
Having the KPL timer would be complete over kill through out my home for single instance rooms. But, appreciate its power and will consider incorporating at least one of these fine devices in the future.
Teken . . . |
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Please tell me
