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pjd1
Starting Member
USA
4 Posts |
 Posted - 06/08/2012 : 1:59:51 PM
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Can someone please help:
I have a 3-way set up, 2 switch 1 load, that I just can't figure out.
I have not looked at the 'fixture' box yet.
One switch (call it Box 1) Jbox has 2 cables, cable A a 2 cond.+Gnd and B a 3 cond.+Gnd. Internal connections are as follows: A Gnd to B Gnd, A White to B Black. This leaves A Black (marked with black tape) and B White (black tape) and B Red (black tape) free.
The other (Call it Box 2) Jbox has 1 cable, cable A a 3 cond.+Gnd. Internal connections are NONE. This leaves A Black, A Red, A white, and Gnd free.
I don't remember where on the switches everything was connected, I removed mechanical switches long ago for X10. I now want to install INSTEON KeypadLink8 at Box 2 location, and EITHER install KeypadLink 8 in Box 1 OR PREFERABLY leave it empty (its in a odd location I never use, no sense installing a $70 switch that is never used.)
Thanks for all your help in advance.
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-- pjd - NY - USA |
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pjd1
Starting Member
USA
4 Posts |
Posted - 06/08/2012 : 2:30:52 PM
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BY THE WAY..... Box 1 has 120v from cable A white+B black connection to Gnd. and Box 2 has 120v from A black to Gnd.
Also the fixture is the top half of a duplex outlet, used for room lamps only. Built in 1985.
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-- pjd - NY - USA |
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oberkc
Advanced Member
USA
1744 Posts |
Posted - 06/08/2012 : 6:49:50 PM
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I suspect your X-10 switches required no neutral(?)
My best (pretty confident) guess:
Box 1; cable A white is hot supply from the fixture (outlet). Should be marked with black tape. Cable A black is intended as switched hot back to fixture. Cable B runs between box 1 and box 2. In a "standard" configuration, two of the conductors would be travelers, the third would be the common. I doubt that you have a neutral in box 1. I understand that this wiring configuration is called a switch loop.
Box 2: all three conductors are the same as in box 1. Originally, they would have been connected to a three-way switch, one to common, and two travelers. None would be neutral.
Outlet: you probably have at least two cables, both two-conductor (black and white). One cable is supply, one goes to box one. If others, they continue supply to another part of the circuit.
Unfortunately, if this is true, and you wish to continue to use two insteon switches to control the outlet, you will need a third device: an outletlinc. Then you would repurpose the black/white wire from the outlet to box 1 as hot/neutral. Connect box one blacks and whites together, and to switchlinc black/white. Cap load wire and red wire. At box 2, connect black/white to switchlinc black/white. Cap load and red wires. "link" the switches and outletlinc following instructions that came with devices. |
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pjd1
Starting Member
USA
4 Posts |
Posted - 06/08/2012 : 7:16:08 PM
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you are correct oberkc, x10 had no neutrals, and for that matter neither do the boxes according to your description. Now I am discovering switch loop style all over the house, making Insteon with neutrals impossible without rewiring rooms, living, 3 bedrooms. Only in dinning and kitchen was I able to get Insteon, as for some reason there were neutrals in the boxes; (also no switched outlets either though).
Thank you for your solution. I also have Switch Loop with one switch in other locations. I can see by adding OutletLinks (Dimmer style) in these situations and repurposing wires how I might achieve success. Nice that only top half of OutletLink is controlled like my current setup.
Many Thanks. |
-- pjd - NY - USA |
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BLH
Advanced Member
3795 Posts |
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Tfitzpatri8
Administrator
USA
6962 Posts |
Posted - 06/09/2012 : 07:17:17 AM
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| Isn't one of the restrictions on the new two-wire switch is that it is for two-way switches, not three-way wiring? |
Volunteer Moderator & Home Automation Enthusiast |
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BLH
Advanced Member
3795 Posts |
Posted - 06/09/2012 : 08:51:38 AM
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| That was one of the restrictions. As it takes power through the load. So both switches would have to be connected to a load and not one with the Load wire caped off and cross linked. |
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stusviews
Advanced Member
USA
8517 Posts |
Posted - 06/09/2012 : 3:59:42 PM
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Box 1: 2-wire cable is from the fixture and is a switch loop. White (with tape) is line, black is load. 3-wire cable includes load return and two travelers.
Box 2: 3- wire cable is from box 1.
You will need to remove the fixture and install an In-LineLinc, black to line, white to neutral and red to fixture black.
At the fixture, the 2-wire cable from Box 1 will have white connected to line, black connected to fixture black. Rewire the 2-wire cable from Box 1 so it has line (black) and neutral (white) as determined at the fixture. At Box 1, connect black the 3-wire cable black, white to 3- wire cable white, cap the red. Cap the red at Box 2.
You now have line and neutral at each box. Install any Insteon controller (e.g., SwitchLinc, KeypadLinc) at either or both boxes and link it/them to the In-LineLinc. If you install two controllers, cross-link them.
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pjd1
Starting Member
USA
4 Posts |
Posted - 06/09/2012 : 6:28:00 PM
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Thanks for your solution also. In my original post I said I might want to eliminate the switch at box 1. So I will just tie white to white, black to black, and red is capped (not used). Makes it a single switch fixture (outlet) in Box 2 only. Blank Cover Box 1.
I will do the same in rooms that have switch loops with single switches.
I have my OutletLinc's ordered and anxiously await their arrival.
Thanks All.
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-- pjd - NY - USA |
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Topic |
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INSTEON 3-way 'situation'
