| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| x046866x |
Posted - 05/25/2012 : 06:17:33 AM
I have a "master" panel that feeds all new circuits in my house and also to 2 sub-panels; 1 that is the original old panel at the other end of the house and 1 to an external garage. When I installed my 2412 on a circuit on the master panel it would not recognize a switch device (2466) in my garage. When I moved the controller to an outlet in the garage where both devices were fed off the garage subpanel it worked just fine.
Do I just need the signal enhancer and then I'll be able to put the controller on the main panel and devices connected to either sub panel should work? |
| 8 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| x046866x |
Posted - 05/25/2012 : 11:58:04 AM
FYI: 2477SA2 is the 220 switch I will use in the remote garage for the compressor and it has the dual band bridge/AP in the switch. |
| x046866x |
Posted - 05/25/2012 : 11:55:53 AM
I was looking at that very device. What I'm going to do is put a new 4" box with this in one slot and a plug for the controller and mount that directly next to my main box. I would hope that even without the AP in the 220V switch the light switch in the remote garage should work then, but I'll have the AP as a "bonus" anyway.
Thanks everyone for your help! |
| stusviews |
Posted - 05/25/2012 : 11:09:17 AM
A SignaLinc hardwired coupler is the definitive device for bridging the two legs of the split single-phase electric supply. It's not only a coupler. By being placed at the power entry point, most of the signal is conserved within the building. It does not have any RF capability and does require two dedicated circuit breakers. The ideal place is the main panel and may be all you need to accomplish coupling.
Access Points and dual-band LampLincs are the most convenient as they are plug-in devices. As Teken indicated, the Access Point has the most powerful RF capability, but requires giving up an outlet. OTOH, a LampLinc is only useful if it's controlling a lamp.
Wire-in dual band devices (e.g., SwitchLinc) are convenient as they replace and automate an existing device, but their location may not be the best for coupling as you'll need at least one dual-band device on each leg. But, it you're replacing a lot of devices using wire-in dual-band devices, it's very likely that you will achieve coupling.
Keep in mind that only two devices are needed for coupling (except for the SignaLinc which is a single device). Once coupling is achieved, additional dual-band devices can increase reliability and wireless (RF) range. |
| EVIL Teken |
Posted - 05/25/2012 : 10:38:08 AM
quote:
Originally posted by x046866x
That answers my questions.
Thank you!
No worries, but somethings to consider for the future.
1. Access Point are power line / wireless bridges. They serve no other purpose but to transfer the communications of the Insteon signal. They provide no control of any device. But, they are more powerful than their other cousins, and also give you the flexibility of being moved.
2. Dual band devices - Allows you to control a load. Provides both powerline and wireless transport of the signal / command.
3. Signal Linc - Provides bridging of both legs in the service entrance to couple the signal. Takes up two breaker slots so can hinder future renovations etc. Or if an additional slot is not available can not be used. Has no features for the user to turn on / off a load.
Teken . . . |
| x046866x |
Posted - 05/25/2012 : 08:29:24 AM
That answers my questions.
Thank you! |
| EVIL Teken |
Posted - 05/25/2012 : 08:21:39 AM
quote:
Originally posted by x046866x
So with master/sub/sub I'd need a device in all three or just the sub panels?
Coincidentally I am going to install a 220V switch in the garage that has an access point included, so I'm good there.
I've seen the 4 tap connectivity test referenced a couple of times....what is that and where can I execute it from?
I would suggest a AP (Access Point) as it will allow you to plug in the device in any outlet. So that will allow you to move the device for the best signal coupling.
Keep in mind the intent is to ensure all 3 panels are coupled so all parts of the home can communicate correctly.
Please read the how to manual for the AP device on the Smarthome sales page. It will explain in great detail what LED colors and the order in which they appear confirms proper signal coupling.
At the end of the day all panels need to be bridged to allow the most reliable and conistent Insteon mesh signal to propagate.
Teken . . . |
| x046866x |
Posted - 05/25/2012 : 08:17:20 AM
So with master/sub/sub I'd need a device in all three or just the sub panels?
Coincidentally I am going to install a 220V switch in the garage that has an access point included, so I'm good there.
I've seen the 4 tap connectivity test referenced a couple of times....what is that and where can I execute it from?
|
| EVIL Teken |
Posted - 05/25/2012 : 08:06:04 AM
quote:
Originally posted by x046866x
I have a "master" panel that feeds all new circuits in my house and also to 2 sub-panels; 1 that is the original old panel at the other end of the house and 1 to an external garage. When I installed my 2412 on a circuit on the master panel it would not recognize a switch device (2466) in my garage. When I moved the controller to an outlet in the garage where both devices were fed off the garage subpanel it worked just fine.
Do I just need the signal enhancer and then I'll be able to put the controller on the main panel and devices connected to either sub panel should work?
You will need either the following to bridge both legs of the electrical phase in your home.
- Dual band device
- Access Point
- Signal linc
Any of the three devices will help you connect all of the panels together. Keep in mind you will need one on each panel and also perform the 4 tap connectivity test to ensure all is connected.
Teken . . . |
