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T O P I C    R E V I E W
Calox Posted - 04/20/2006 : 07:51:38 AM
What Insteon products are forum users waiting for?

I know that I have a a handful, but I'd like to see what other forum users are thinking. Here's my list:

- Wireless/Wired Motion Detectors
- Wireless Remotes
- Thermostats
- Plug-in Modules (i.e. "Socket Rockets")
- Security Cameras
30   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
danabu Posted - 03/25/2014 : 10:07:57 PM
Would be great to be able to use my Insteon gear with IFTTT. A couple competitors are already there, including SmartThings and WeMo, but I don't want to switch platforms. Insteon dev team - how about making my Insteon Hub accessible through IFTTT?
jhansen Posted - 03/23/2014 : 3:20:44 PM
quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

quote:
Originally posted by wittegeek

I've seen this before, but I haven't seen one made yet. A wired insteon motion sensor.


A wired dual-band motion sensor (that doubles as a dimmer) would be a nice addition



I agree with stusviews a wired motion sensor that doubles as a dimmer would be great! Also, for the KeypadLinc, a four-button kit would be a great addition.
stusviews Posted - 03/21/2014 : 6:35:55 PM
quote:
Originally posted by wittegeek

I've seen this before, but I haven't seen one made yet. A wired insteon motion sensor.


A wired dual-band motion sensor (that doubles as a dimmer) would be a nice addition
jmanphxaz@gmail.com Posted - 03/20/2014 : 11:57:35 PM
I have yet to discover something along these lines for any home automation system so this could be a unique opportunity for some inventor...

I'd like to see a module that includes a microphone and a speaker that could be used for voice control. There are plenty of software options out there (CastleOS, HouseLinc, HAL) but no one has developed an easy way to setup voice activation in rooms without doing a lot of wiring and complex microphone setups. How much better would it be to have a simple table-top unit that plugged into the wall that could interface via WiFi network with a base station or a computer.

Optional extras could include room distinctive units (e.g. set a unit to know where it is and thus when someone asked "turn on the lights" it would know which room it came from and turn on the appropriate modules), integration with internet news feeds and weather (e.g. like HAL offers), and even the ability to integrate with a stereo from the unit to stream MP3s from the server computer to the room the unit is in.
wittegeek Posted - 03/16/2014 : 2:44:03 PM
I've seen this before, but I haven't seen one made yet. A wired insteon motion sensor. Yes. I know I can accomplish this with a regular motion sensor and a micro on off controller, but then I'm wiring it up instead of having it prewired.
KHouse Posted - 02/26/2014 : 7:06:16 PM
I'd like to add a vote for a "heartbeat" for the Smoke Bridge. More specifically, would like to be able to know that my OneLink Smoke and CO alarms are "alive". A "heartbeat" similar to that of the water sensor would be great, if even possible.
shannong Posted - 02/21/2014 : 09:27:37 AM
Motion sensors are poor Occupancy sensors and really only used since it's the easiest and cheapest approach. IMO, they're only useful for the basics of turning a light on/off. The susceptibility to false positives also works against them.

A true Occupancy sensor knows who is where. Did my car pull into the garage or is it my son's? Are we both home? I like the HVAC at a different temp than him. If he is home alone, then set it for his preference until I return. If I'm home and downstairs, he's not allowed to change that Tstat but he can change the one upstairs if I'm not up there.

A Bluetooth Low Energy enabled Insteon light switch, wall plug, or outlet would be ideal.

I'd be happy with a 12V Insteon transmitter for vehicles like Xathros suggested also. I'd like to put an AC-inverter in my car with an RF enabled Insteon device just for this purpose but haven't yet done research to find one that actually has a true or near sinewave output for it to work. I don't want a giant UPS in the trunk. The unique Insteon ID would tell WHO pulled in.
Tfitzpatri8 Posted - 02/21/2014 : 08:44:10 AM
Back when x10 was dirt cheap, people did something similar with motion sensors. They'd mount one facing the floor pedals, wire it up to use the car's battery for power, then use the type of signal received as a pseudo presence detector. A more sophisticated controller could watch for On signals and wait for the matching Off signal to arrive. An On without a follow-up On or Off in the programmed number of minutes was assumed to mean that the car had left. Then the next On or Off message meant that a) it had returned, b) that someone else doing the same thing just drove by your garage, or c) that your neighbor was using a PalmPad to mess with you!

The on/off adapter is clever, but the market for such a device could be fairly small. The trend seems to be heading in a different direction, toward using smart phone geofencing and short-range Bluetooth radios both as presence detectors and keys. If your phone reaches out to your home controller to notify it that you've left the property, it can decrement an occupancy count variable and change house behavior once that drops to zero.
Xathros Posted - 02/21/2014 : 06:58:22 AM
This is true, however, I'm not attempting to detect people in the garage, I have a motion sensor for that. I want to know which vehicles are in the garage. A beacon with a unique Insteon address installed in each vehicle will allow you to know which vehicle(s) is/are in the garage or in proximity of the garage. This solution is not affected by people or pets walking through an IR beam or by someone leaving an object in the wrong place blocking the beam.
stusviews Posted - 02/20/2014 : 8:47:50 PM
Occupancy sensors detect movement, not an empty vs. filled space. You can detect the absence or presence of a non-moving object using IR beam, such as these: http://home-automation.smarthome.com/search?view=list&w=ir%20beam
Xathros Posted - 02/20/2014 : 1:12:15 PM
I have to admit that I did NOT read all 33 pages of this thread so I'm hoping that this request is not already in here somewhere.

How about a 12v powered beacon that we can place in our cars for garage occupancy detection. This could be an on/off module with a timer set to send an on command once a minute/5 mins/30 mins. This way if we don't see a On from the beacon after a predetermined time we can assume the vehicle is gone. I have been toying with the idea of building my own out of an on/off module, a 12V to USB charge adapter and a 555 timer.

Heres hoping...

-Xathros
racekarl Posted - 02/11/2014 : 7:16:36 PM
For what it's worth, the outletlinc (at least the dimmable version) IS tamper resistant.

I would like the ability to set a minimum dim level on dimmable switches to accommodate LED lights that cut out when dimmed too low.
jwagner010 Posted - 02/06/2014 : 09:28:12 AM
I would like to see an INSTEON Inline Micro IOLinc. I think SmartHome would be onto a winner with an Inline Micro IOLinc. Most folks don't appreciate wallwarts all over the house and having an inline IOLinc would really allow the community to take INSTEON to the next level with the types of devices that could be connected to the INSTEON network and then controlled by the HUB, ISY, etc

For example, I could wire an Inline IOLinc behind the light switch at my front door and then hook the Inline IOlinc up to a contact switch in the deadbolt mortise to indicate if my door is locked or not. Today having a plug in IOLinc isn't an option either ascetically or the fact that I don't have an outlet nearby.
kevinvw Posted - 01/06/2014 : 2:20:59 PM
Wow, what a read.... 33 pages!! I confess I did skip a few, but the wishlist from last month was great! thanks for the summary.

I would like to add to the list. I have a couple of arduino projects that I would like to make an insteon responder. Yes, I could buy a PLM, works great for development, but I would like to package it a little better. A small circuit board would be ideal without the PLM housing or power prongs. kind of an inline-PLM with power on one side and serial on the other.

even more ideally would be just the power interface to receive and send raw data... a nice simple serial to serial-over-power converter. I know that seems harsh and a lot of extra work that has already been done, but I suspect this would be an even cheaper solution on the HW side and the insteon comm. protocol is pretty well documented.

anybody ever see anything like this?
any chance we will ever see a plm like circuit board out of SH for do-it-yourselfers?
shannong Posted - 01/03/2014 : 09:52:24 AM
The thread goes back to 2006 so it's pointless anyways to have voting or otherwise.

Over the past month myself and several others suggested started a new thread to get a clean start but the moderators apparently don't think it's a good idea.
RobMtl007 Posted - 01/03/2014 : 09:18:51 AM

As I have mentioned in another message, it would be much better if
we have a voting system to vote for the best Insteon Module ideas.
As the thread is right now we can't see which module idea is the most popular.
Regards Robert



quote:
Originally posted by fiddletownrob

Hi guys...how about taking your "discussions" about the merits/features (or lack of same) of existing devices elsewhere in the Forum. I thought this particular thread was about "Insteon Product / Module Requests".

Some/most of us want to post ideas for Insteon future products and see what others are requesting. We also hope the Insteon design team is actually reading the posts but it's hard to believe they will want to wade through 32 plus pages of "discussions" just to find a few new idea.

thanks...

fiddletownrob Posted - 01/02/2014 : 4:06:41 PM
Hi guys...how about taking your "discussions" about the merits/features (or lack of same) of existing devices elsewhere in the Forum. I thought this particular thread was about "Insteon Product / Module Requests".

Some/most of us want to post ideas for Insteon future products and see what others are requesting. We also hope the Insteon design team is actually reading the posts but it's hard to believe they will want to wade through 32 plus pages of "discussions" just to find a few new idea.

thanks...
shannong Posted - 01/02/2014 : 09:33:27 AM
On the 2441 Thermostats, the Energy button should be accessible without opening the door. Having a "convenient option" such as the Energy mode is neutralized if you must physically manipulate the device to use access it.

Arguably the Energy button would be used more often than the Mode button, which is front accessible. The idea of the Energy button means it would be used at least twice per day when leaving and returning whereas the Mode button would only be used occasionally when there are significant whether changes. I'm not arguing that the Mode button shouldn't be front accessible. Just pointing that out to justify the front accessibility of the Energy button.
shannong Posted - 01/02/2014 : 09:26:34 AM
Provide an option for the 2441TH Thermostat that allows a user to make the first press of the "Mode" button turn on the LED back light with no changes. This would make the thermostat more user friendly at night. Should just be a firmware update to the current models.

The same could be said for the set point up/downs arrows but I think the Mode button is a better choice since the up/down arrows are used more frequently (maybe multiple times a day) vs the mode button used only during significant weather changes. That way during the day pressing the set point arrows would work as normal without a need to press twice.
InspectorGadget Posted - 01/01/2014 : 6:09:55 PM
quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

quote:
Originally posted by InspectorGadget
If you connect line to black and neutral to white on your Switchlinc, you can't tie the other end of your load to either one. Switchlinc switches the black lead onto its load wire so you MUST connect the other end of the load to neutral, in this case.


Not so. A SwitchLinc can switch the line OR the neutral. Here's an easy test:

Cut an extension cord that has a non-polarized plug in half. Wire it to control a SwitchLinc, plug a lamp into one end and insert the plug. The SwitchLinc controls the lamp. Reverse the plug, the SwitchLinc still controls the lamp.

If you have a voltmeter, measure the voltage (when the SwitchLinc is on) between the load wire and neutral when line is switch and between the load wire and line when neutral is switched. You will get identical readings.

Even further, link a controlling device. The controller functions correctly no matter whether you switch the line or neutral.

BTW, I just created that exact mock-up on my bench



Stu, are you being intentionally abusive? I never said you couldn't switch the neutral. I said IF you wire line to black on the switchlinc, you must wire the other side of your load to neutral, in that case. Look at the text that you quoted!! You're stuck on this one concept which is not in conflict with and has no bearing on what I was talking about. Yes, you can exchange line and neutral as long as you are consistent. I said as much in my last post if you really read it. And yes, I acknowledge that everything you said above was true, except your first two words: "not so".

I don't appreciate this level of disrespect.
EVIL Teken Posted - 01/01/2014 : 4:40:44 PM
Smoke Bridge: I would like to see the next iteration of the Smoke Bridge have a heart beat. This would provide feed back if the device was plugged into the wall, or loss of power. Currently the device does not have a heart beat and there for can not be monitored in this fashion.

Another member brought this up and I thought it was a great idea to mention in this thread. His wife always unplugs the smoke bridge and there is no method to confirm its plugged in, or has power to the device.

Teken . . .
stusviews Posted - 01/01/2014 : 1:03:03 PM
quote:
Originally posted by InspectorGadget
If you connect line to black and neutral to white on your Switchlinc, you can't tie the other end of your load to either one. Switchlinc switches the black lead onto its load wire so you MUST connect the other end of the load to neutral, in this case.


Not so. A SwitchLinc can switch the line OR the neutral. Here's an easy test:

Cut an extension cord that has a non-polarized plug in half. Wire it to control a SwitchLinc, plug a lamp into one end and insert the plug. The SwitchLinc controls the lamp. Reverse the plug, the SwitchLinc still controls the lamp.

If you have a voltmeter, measure the voltage (when the SwitchLinc is on) between the load wire and neutral when line is switch and between the load wire and line when neutral is switched. You will get identical readings.

Even further, link a controlling device. The controller functions correctly no matter whether you switch the line or neutral.

BTW, I just created that exact mock-up on my bench
InspectorGadget Posted - 01/01/2014 : 12:26:28 PM
quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

Not so. AC does not have "poles." If you swapped line and neutral, every 110/120VAC device would operate exactly the same, ground fault protection devices excepted. In fact, you probably have some plug-in devices that do not have polarized plugs.



Stu, you're quibbling over semantics and not looking at the point. They can be poles without being of fixed charge. Poles can just describe antithetical extremes.

If that bothers you so much call them "terminals" or "reference points". Substitute whatever you like. It's true you can exchange them in most circuitry BUT you must be consistent. If you connect line to black and neutral to white on your Switchlinc, you can't tie the other end of your load to either one. Switchlinc switches the black lead onto its load wire so you MUST connect the other end of the load to neutral, in this case. So they do have "polarity" in a slightly more abstract sense, it's just that the polarity is reversing 60 times a second and you can and must respect the fact that it's opposite between the two. That's the meaning of "poles" I was getting at.

The point I'm trying to make is that you could preserve on-off directionality in a passive Slave switch if your Sense wire circuit in the active unit were made to detect an AC potential to either line or neutral, and to differentiate between the two.

I belabor this point because the sense wire circuit in the micro module, for instance, only detects a potential to one of the AC terminals, the Neutral if memory serves. You can either have a static on/off or a toggle, but you can't have a deterministic on AND a deterministic off function with a single sense wire, the way they designed it in the micro module. So you couldn't implement the multi-way switching with a single traveler wire using that kind of sensing.

But as I'm writing this, I realize that you could use the dual sense wires of the micro module with TWO travelers And the "dual momentary" switching mode of the micro module if you built the proposed inexpensive Slave switch to take in a single line and give two outputs, one for the on direction and one for the off, which you could gang on the two travelers back to the dual sense wires of the micro module.

So all Brian would need are these passive momentary SPDT slave switches for his inexpensive multi-way lamp circuit, and he could build it on existing micro-modules and still save money.

Although it would be ideal if they built the dual sense wires into the Switchlinc, too.

-John
RobMtl007 Posted - 01/01/2014 : 11:07:39 AM
Greetings Everyone:
I hope Insteon users are looking forward to some new creative modules for 2014.
I think Insteon should look into helping people who love to take care of house plants.
I would like to suggest that Insteon creates a module that can inform the user if your plants need water, sunlight, etc.
Here is an example of what an Insteon module may look like:

http://www.smarthome.com/76354BL/Parrot-PAIPF900002-Flower-Power-Plant-Sensor-Blue/p.aspx

Also, in this section known as "Insteon Product/Module Request", it would be great to have a voting system so that we can find out which Insteon Module is being voted on the most.
This way Insteon can begin production in creating it.
Regards Robert
stusviews Posted - 12/29/2013 : 1:35:28 PM
Not so. AC does not have "poles." If you swapped line and neutral, every 110/120VAC device would operate exactly the same, ground fault protection devices excepted. In fact, you probably have some plug-in devices that do not have polarized plugs.
InspectorGadget Posted - 12/29/2013 : 1:24:49 PM
quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

quote:
Originally posted by InspectorGadget
Now what would REALLY be GREAT is if Smarthome made sense wires on Switchlincs that could sense Hot as well as Neutral (versus "open"), and then introduce 3-way slave switches that had directionality to them, so up would always switch on and down would always switch off, on the Master as well as any of the Slaves.


That's the way SwitchLincs operate now. Tap the top to turn on, tap the bottom to turn off.

BTW, line voltage is AC. The main reason line and neutral are differentiated is safety. There is no direction such as positive and negative as there is with DC. The earliest electrical installations switched the neutral, not the line.



Stu, I don't think you're following me. I know that's how the Switchlincs work. What I was proposing was a cheap, minimal Slave switch that would momentarily switch either line or neutral onto the traveler, which would connect with the proposed (requested) Sense wire on the Switchlinc. The idea is for the Slaves to be inexpensive (like $20) with no electronics in them, just passive momentary switches.

The end result is to be able to replace a multi-way switch circuit for the cost of one Switchlinc plus several much cheaper slaves, and still have the physical ergonomics (up is always on) championed by Tfitzpatri8. This is what Brian wanted to replace his manual multi-way circuits without wasting a small fortune on Switchlincs for every box which would only be half-used.

For this to work, the proposed Sense wire in the Switchlinc would have to differentiate between Line being fed to the traveler versus Neutral. And although there is no "direction" as you put it, there IS a big difference between them: they're on opposite poles of 110VAC. The sense circuit in the Switchlinc could sense whether there is a large potential to Line, or a large potential to Neutral.

- John
TheSidewinder Posted - 12/29/2013 : 09:38:05 AM
quote:
Originally posted by EricK

Just received the new door sensor. Scene control should have separate open and close functions, not just open/close. In my situation I want the lights to come on when a door is opened, but for them not to turn off when the door is closed. I can do this with the hl event, but scenes always work faster.

Edit: with the 2 zone enabled in Houselinc there are separate open and close signals. The close appears as a separate line for the device in the scene window, but the open shows open/close. Tested it using open/close and the lights turn on when the door opens and do not turn off when the door closes.
E



If you're talking about the 2421/2843-222 ("Device 40"), it can be set as you described, per page 6 of the full user manual. Their description for items 3) and 5) on that page is confusing though.
stusviews Posted - 12/27/2013 : 10:39:07 AM
quote:
Originally posted by InspectorGadget
Now what would REALLY be GREAT is if Smarthome made sense wires on Switchlincs that could sense Hot as well as Neutral (versus "open"), and then introduce 3-way slave switches that had directionality to them, so up would always switch on and down would always switch off, on the Master as well as any of the Slaves.


That's the way SwitchLincs operate now. Tap the top to turn on, tap the bottom to turn off.

BTW, line voltage is AC. The main reason line and neutral are differentiated is safety. There is no direction such as positive and negative as there is with DC. The earliest electrical installations switched the neutral, not the line.
Tfitzpatri8 Posted - 12/26/2013 : 9:35:47 PM
Using a single micro module in its 3-way mode, all the multi-way switches would continue to operate like conventional 3-ways, only with the added benefit of automatic and remote control. Flipping any switch would simply toggle from the current on/off state to the opposite, no matter what state the light is in.
InspectorGadget Posted - 12/26/2013 : 6:27:57 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Tfitzpatri8
If you want all the controls to be intuitive, you would really be better off to stick with your existing multi-way switches and just wire them all to the sense wire of a single micro module.



IMO, the existing multi-way switches are just as unintuitive as you were complaining it would be like with one SwitchLinc and a sense wire going to the other old switches, so I think it would still be an improvement (at a huge savings) to have one SwitchLinc with a sense wire.

What would work best is a sense wire on a SwitchLinc and a number of the old 3-way slave switches used with the old X-10 3-way SwitchLincs. They have a momentary paddle that sends a signal to the main switch "sense" wire over the traveler wires. You could add as many slaves as you want. Google "X10 3-way slave switch".

Now what would REALLY be GREAT is if Smarthome made sense wires on Switchlincs that could sense Hot as well as Neutral (versus "open"), and then introduce 3-way slave switches that had directionality to them, so up would always switch on and down would always switch off, on the Master as well as any of the Slaves.

Smarthome used to sell Insteon transmitter Decora switches that had no load control on them. They came in a kit with a remote load module that they billed as a "2-wire solution". The transmitter units would work GREAT as 3-way slaves... without the need for the added expense of the load control it should have a lower cost.


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